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You need a clear, simple one that fits your real life and covers the basics: income, health care, housing, taxes, and family. Here’s what to focus on in these last five working years.

1. Get brutally honest about your retirement budget

Before anything else, you need a realistic picture of what retirement will actually cost. Not the dreamy version, the real monthly bills: housing, food, gas, health insurance, phones, streaming, gifts for grandkids, travel, home repairs, and the random stuff that always pops up.

Use a simple worksheet or online tool to map your current spending and then adjust for a retired life. The Consumer Financial Protection Bureau has basic retirement-planning tools to help you think through income and expenses.

Then list your expected retirement income: Social Security, any pensions, withdrawals from 401(k)s or IRAs, part-time work, rental income, and so on. Compare the two numbers. If the income number is lower than the expense number, that gap is your five-year marching order.

This isn’t about judging past choices. It’s about seeing the truth on paper so you can decide what to change, lowering some bills, saving more, or shifting your retirement date or lifestyle expectations.

2. Decide how and when you’ll claim Social Security

Your Social Security decision is one of the biggest levers you have in these years. You can usually claim as early as 62, get your full benefit at your full retirement age, or boost your check by waiting up to age 70.

Use the Social Security benefit calculators to estimate what you’d get at different ages based on your actual earnings record. Check your “my Social Security” account to make sure your earnings history is correct; mistakes there can cost you for the rest of your life.

Five years out is also a good time to think about how Social Security fits with the rest of your plan. If you expect a shorter life, heavy physical wear and tear, or no other income, claiming earlier might make sense. If you’re healthy and can cover early years from savings or work, waiting can act like buying yourself a bigger inflation-protected pension.

There’s no one right answer. What matters is that you’ve run the numbers for your situation instead of picking an age because “that’s what everyone does.”

3. Use the last five years to supercharge savings

Your final working years are prime time to shovel money into retirement accounts. Once you hit age 50, you can make “catch-up” contributions to most workplace plans and IRAs, on top of the regular limits.

For example, the IRS has raised 401(k) employee deferral limits and catch-up amounts for people 50 and older, so by 2026 many workers can put significantly more into their plans each year. That extra five-year push can easily add tens of thousands to your nest egg once you factor in investment growth.

If you can’t max everything out, that’s fine. Aim to increase your contribution rate every year when you get raises, or anytime a debt drops off. Even moving from 5% to 10% of your pay going into a 401(k) matters. If your employer offers a match, treat getting the full match as non-negotiable, it’s part of your compensation.

You’ll feel the squeeze in your take-home pay now, but that’s better than feeling the squeeze every month for the rest of your life.

4. Clean up debt and right-size your big bills

High-interest debt is a problem at any age, but it’s especially brutal when you’re about to live on a fixed income. Credit cards, personal loans, car loans, and “buy now, pay later” plans can crowd out essentials once your paycheck shrinks.

Five years out, make a simple list of all your debts, interest rates, and minimums. Focus first on anything over about 8–10% interest,/

that’s the stuff quietly eating your retirement. You might use part of a bonus or tax refund to knock down the worst balances. If you’re overwhelmed, talking to a reputable nonprofit credit counselor can help you see whether a debt management plan makes sense.

This is also the time to look hard at your big fixed expenses. Can you refinance or pay down a mortgage before retirement? Swap an expensive car for something cheaper while you still qualify for a loan? Drop unused subscriptions and extras? Every big bill you reduce now is one less thing to stress about later.

The goal isn’t to be debt-free at all costs. It’s to walk into retirement with payments you can comfortably handle on your new income.

5. Decide where and how you’ll live

Housing will likely be your largest expense in retirement. Five years out is the right time to get honest about whether your current home still makes sense.

Make two lists: what you love about where you live, and what worries you. That might include stairs, property taxes, yard work, being far from medical care, or simply having more space than you want to maintain. Tools and checklists from retirement and aging organizations can help you think through costs and lifestyle tradeoffs.

If you want to downsize, move closer to family, or relocate to a lower-cost area, start scouting now. Research property taxes, insurance, and the cost of living, not just home prices. If you plan to “age in place,” factor in the cost of future home modifications like grab bars, ramps, or bathroom changes.

Moving in retirement isn’t just a money question, it’s also about community, weather, and health. But whichever way you lean, making the decision while you still have steady income gives you more control and better financing options.

6. Tune your investments so they match this new phase

The portfolio that worked when you were 35 and had decades to ride out crashes may be too aggressive when you’re 60 with a five-year runway. On the flip side, going all cash can leave you exposed to inflation for 20 or 30 years. The average 65-year-old today can expect to spend roughly 18–20 years in retirement, sometimes more.

Five years out is a good time to check your mix of stocks, bonds, and cash. Many big firms offer free online retirement checkups and tools that show whether your current mix lines up with your age and risk tolerance.

You don’t have to day-trade or chase hot funds. Usually, it’s about gradually shifting some money from pure growth into more stable investments, while still keeping enough in stocks to help your money grow over a long retirement.

If you’re not confident doing this yourself, consider a session with a fee-only financial planner or a CFP professional. One or two hours of advice can prevent very expensive mistakes.

7. Map out health insurance and Medicare

Health care becomes a central budget line in retirement, and the rules are not simple. If you’re retiring before 65, you’ll need a plan for coverage until Medicare kicks in, employer retiree coverage, a spouse’s plan, or a Marketplace plan through HealthCare.gov.

For Medicare, your Initial Enrollment Period is a seven-month window around your 65th birthday, starting three months before you turn 65 and ending three months after that month. Missing that window when you don’t have other qualifying coverage can mean late enrollment penalties that follow you for life.

Use this five-year window to learn the basics: the difference between Original Medicare and Medicare Advantage, how Medigap works, and what drug coverage looks like. Compare that to your current employer plan so you’re not shocked by the change in premiums and deductibles.

If you have a Health Savings Account through a high-deductible plan, remember that HSA money can be used tax-free for qualified medical expenses in retirement.

8. Understand taxes and required minimum distributions

Retirement is not a tax-free zone. Traditional 401(k)s and IRAs are taxed when you withdraw. Social Security can be partly taxable. And at a certain point, the IRS forces you to take money out of tax-deferred accounts through required minimum distributions, or RMDs.

Right now, most people must start RMDs from traditional IRAs and many workplace plans at age 73. If you wait until the April 1 deadline for your first RMD, you may have to take two in the same calendar year, which can spike your taxable income. Planning withdrawals a few years ahead can keep you out of higher tax brackets and avoid penalties.

Five years before retirement, look at all your accounts: pre-tax, Roth, and taxable. Think about which ones you’ll tap first. Some people work with a tax pro to see whether partial Roth conversions make sense while their income is still relatively high but before RMDs begin.

You don’t have to become a tax nerd. But knowing the basics lets you keep more of what you’ve already saved.

9. Build a real cash cushion outside your investments

Retirement will still have flat tires, leaky roofs, and surprise medical bills. If every unexpected expense has to come out of investments at the worst possible time, you’ll constantly be selling low.

Aim to build a dedicated cash buffer, usually three to six months of essential expenses in a savings or money market account, separate from your daily checking and separate from long-term investments. Some older adults find tools like budget calendars or digital budgeting checkups helpful for seeing how much cash they truly need on hand.

Five years out is a good time to redirect part of each raise or bonus into this cushion. You can also park part of any big windfalls, tax refunds, inheritances, severance, here.

The point is not to hoard money in savings forever. It’s to give yourself a shock absorber so you’re not forced to raid retirement accounts every time life throws a curveball.

10. Track down old accounts and fix your beneficiaries

If you’ve changed jobs a few times, there’s a good chance you have old 401(k)s or pensions floating around. Losing track of these is more common than you’d think; government and nonprofit tools exist just to help people find missing retirement money.

Make a simple inventory of every retirement account you’ve ever had: employer name, plan type, current balance if you know it, and contact info. Decide whether to leave each one where it is, roll it into your current employer plan, or consolidate into an IRA. Fewer accounts usually means less chaos and fewer forgotten RMDs later.

While you’re at it, review your beneficiaries on every retirement account and life insurance policy. Those forms usually override your will, so you want them up to date with your current reality, not an ex from 20 years ago. Most plans let you update this online in a few minutes.

This is boring, unglamorous work. It’s also the difference between your money going where you intend and going somewhere else.

11. Get your legal and medical decision-making documents done

Five years before retirement is prime time to get your paperwork house in order. That usually means a will, powers of attorney for finances and health care, and some kind of medical directive or living will.

The National Institute on Aging has a straightforward checklist of documents to consider when “getting your affairs in order”. An estate planning attorney or legal clinic can help you translate those ideas into documents that fit your state’s laws.

This isn’t just about what happens after you die. Powers of attorney and health-care directives also protect you if you’re alive but can’t manage things for a while because of illness or injury. Without them, your family may have to go to court just to pay your bills or make medical choices.

You don’t need a mansion for this to matter. Even if all you have is a modest house, a car, and your retirement accounts, putting things in writing is one of the most generous gifts you can give your future self and your family.

12. Test-drive your retirement life before you quit

If you can, use these five years to practice retirement instead of jumping into it blind. That has two parts: testing the money and testing the lifestyle.

On the money side, try living for a few months on what your retirement income will be, while you’re still working. Take the difference between your current pay and that “practice retirement income” and send it to savings or debt. You’ll see quickly whether your budget assumptions are realistic, and you’ll build up extra cash at the same time.

On the lifestyle side, think about what your days will actually look like when work is no longer filling 40 or more hours a week. Start exploring hobbies, volunteering, part-time work, or small side gigs now. Trusted resources on retirement planning all stress that non-financial planning, how you’ll spend time and stay connected, matters just as much as the dollars.

The more you can “preview” retirement while you still have a paycheck, the fewer shocks you’ll have when you finally step out of full-time work.get them done, then keep going. Five years is enough time to make your future retired self a lot more comfortable than you might think.

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Learn how to stretch your retirement savings and maximize your Social Security benefits for a comfortable retirement:

18 ways to stretch your retirement savings without feeling poor: The goal isn’t to pinch every penny — it’s to protect the big stuff and trim quiet leaks. Here are simple moves that keep freedom high and stress low.

18 budgeting rules that actually work for people over 50: Money habits change as we age. In this post, discover budgeting rules that fit your income and shift of priorities when you’re over 50.

15 clever strategies to maximize your Social Security benefits: Use the facts in this post to make choices that raise your monthly check for years.

Byline: Katy Willis

You’re digging through a bin of loose toys at the thrift store. Most of it is broken plastic, Happy Meal prizes, and random superheroes with no capes. Then you spot a beat-up Darth Vader, or a tiny G.I. Joe with worn paint, and your brain goes straight to, “Is this worth anything… or is it just old?”

The difference between a $2 toy and a $200 action figure is not obvious when everything is dusty and jumbled together. Labels are gone. Packaging is long trashed. Half the time, you don’t even know the character’s name. But there is real money in vintage figures if you know what you’re looking at. Some rare Star Wars figures and variants have sold for five-figure prices when they show up mint and still sealed.

Even if you’re not chasing five-figure unicorns, it’s still helpful to know the basics. You want to grab the figures that hold value, leave the common junk behind, and avoid overpaying just because something “looks old.” The goal is to treat your thrift trips like a low-risk little business: spend a few dollars, bring home things that actually appreciate or at least hold their value, and have fun doing it.

This guide will walk you through how to think about value, what lines and details to watch for, and how to do quick checks in the store without turning every trip into homework.

Understand what “vintage” and “valuable” really mean

“Vintage” gets thrown on everything these days. For action figures, most collectors use “vintage” to mean toys that are a few decades old, often 20–30 years or more, and from classic lines like the original Star Wars, early G.I. Joe, Masters of the Universe, Transformers, and similar runs from the 70s, 80s, and 90s.

“Valuable” is the other half of the story. It comes down to the same four pillars that shape value in most collectibles: rarity, condition, demand, and completeness.

Rarity is about how many were made and how many survived. Some figures had short production runs. Others were mail-away exclusives. Some came with fragile accessories that got tossed. When only a small number are left, collectors pay for the chance to own one. Demand is about how much people care. A main character from a huge franchise almost always beats a random background guy, even if they were made in similar numbers.

Condition and completeness are huge. A figure that is mint, still sealed on its original card, can be worth many times more than the exact same figure loose in a bin. Loose figures can still be worth good money, especially if they’re rare or complete, but packaging and tiny accessories make a big difference.

When you’re thrifting, you usually won’t find sealed grails every week. But if you keep those pillars in mind, you can tell the difference between “nostalgic but common” and “this might actually pay for my whole cart.”

Get to know the big lines that still bring money

You don’t need to memorize every figure ever made. But knowing the major vintage lines that collectors still chase helps you scan a shelf faster.

The heavy hitters are the usual suspects: original Star Wars figures from the late 70s and 80s, early G.I. Joe (both the 12-inch and the 3.75-inch “Real American Hero” line), Masters of the Universe, early Transformers, and classic Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles. Many figures from these lines, especially main characters and rare variants, keep steady value decades later.

Within each line, some figures are very common and some are pricey. A loose, worn stormtrooper might sell for a modest amount, but a rare variant or late-run character can go into the hundreds, even loose. Certain carded Star Wars figures and special variants have hit tens of thousands at auction when sealed and graded.

Think of it like learning old coins. You don’t start by memorizing every date and mint. You start by learning which runs matter. When you’re out thrifting, if something looks like an original Kenner Star Wars figure, a classic 80s He-Man, or an early Turtles figure, it’s worth an extra look. If it looks like a modern big-headed toy from the dollar aisle, you can usually move on.

As you find more figures, Google them when you get home or check simple price guides so you start to recognize big lines and standout pieces.

Why condition and packaging matter so much

Collectors care about condition more than almost anything else. The same figure can be worth a few dollars loose and hundreds sealed. This isn’t about snobbery; it’s about how many nice examples are left.

Toy grading scales usually run from “poor” up to “mint,” sometimes using C-grades like C5 through C10. A mint figure is basically like new. Poor condition means heavy play wear, damage, or missing pieces. You don’t need to speak perfect grading language, but you should know that small scratches and bit of wear are expected on old toys, while big chunks missing, chewed hands, or sun-faded plastic kill value fast.

Packaging is a multiplier. Sealed “mint-on-card” figures usually sell for much more than opened ones because they prove the figure is untouched and complete. Even slightly worn cards with clear bubbles can be very desirable. The same is true for boxed vehicles and playsets; boxes, inserts, and paperwork all add up.

In real thrift life, you’ll mostly see loose figures thrown in bins or bagged together. That’s okay. Loose can still be valuable if the figure is rare, in good shape, and has hard-to-find accessories like original weapons or small parts. But if you do see carded figures or boxed sets in the wild, slow down and really look them over. Those are the ones that can move the needle for your wallet.

Learn to read markings, dates, and country of origin

Most vintage action figures have tiny copyright stamps and markings somewhere on the body. This is one of your best tools for telling old from new and real from knockoff.

Flip the figure over and look at the backs of legs, feet, or lower backs. You’re usually looking for three things: the company name, the year, and the country of origin. Many older figures were made in places like the USA, Japan, Hong Kong, Mexico, or early Chinese factories. These little marks are a key part of authenticity checks.

If the stamp says something like “© 1982” and lists a known company for that line, that’s a good sign. If there’s no stamp at all, or the markings look soft, smeared, or in the wrong place, be cautious. Reproduction figures and custom casts sometimes skip accurate stamps or use odd fonts and spacing.

Markings alone don’t set value, but they help you make sure you’re holding what you think you’re holding. Once you can quickly find the year and company with your thumb, it gets much easier to do a fast check later at home.

Spotting reissues, bootlegs, and “too perfect” fakes

Popular lines get reissued over and over. Companies remake classic figures with modern molds, updated paint, or new packaging. On top of that, there are straight bootlegs and high-quality reproductions. Some collectors love bootlegs. Some hate them. The big thing for your wallet is making sure you’re not paying vintage prices for a modern toy.

Reissues often copy the original look but include extra logos, safety marks, or modern copyright dates on the back or packaging. Some modern Ninja Turtles reissues, for example, have additional logos printed on the card that never appeared in the 80s runs.

Bootlegs and repros can give themselves away through sloppy details. The plastic might feel lighter or waxier. Paint lines are soft or messy instead of sharp. Joints are loose right out of the package. Stamps might be missing completely or look weird compared with pictures of known originals.

One simple rule: if a figure looks “too new” for its age, slow down. Vintage plastic usually shows at least a bit of age, slight yellowing on white parts, tiny rubs on high points, or faint scratching on glossy paint. That doesn’t mean a perfect-looking figure is fake, but it should push you to double-check markings and maybe look up photos of real examples before you pay up.

At thrift prices, grabbing a cool bootleg you like for a few bucks is fine. Just don’t let a seller convince you a modern repro is a rare original worth hundreds.

Where valuable figures actually show up secondhand

You’ll find action figures almost everywhere: thrift stores, flea markets, yard sales, local classifieds, and online marketplaces. The valuable vintage ones tend to hide in the same places as the junk.

Big chain thrift stores often bag toys together and hang them on a wall. These grab bags can be gold. You might have to buy a handful of junk to get the one good figure in the mix, but if that one figure pays for the bag, you’re still ahead. Smaller charity shops sometimes toss all toys into one big bin or low shelf. Either way, it’s worth a quick dig.

Estate sales and garage sales are good for bigger lots. Someone clearing out a childhood bedroom or an attic might sell an entire tub of 1980s toys for one flat price. That’s where you can find a full run of figures, vehicles, and accessories that would have cost you a lot more piece by piece. Local auctions sometimes group toys into lots and use general grading terms like “good” or “fair” based on condition.

Online, you’ll see more obvious pricing and fewer true steals, but you still might find underpriced lots if you’re patient. For a thrifting-style, low-stress approach, focus on local finds you can inspect in person first. It’s much easier to learn when you can actually hold the figure in your hand.

Quick in-store checks: articulation, accessories, and damage

Once you pick up a figure that might be something, do a fast health check. You’re not grading it like an auction house; you’re just deciding, “Is this worth my $3?”

Start with articulation. Gently flex the limbs and head. Vintage figures will often have stiffer joints than modern super-articulated toys, but they shouldn’t feel like they’re about to snap. If a figure’s limbs are hanging like noodles or completely frozen, that hurts both play value and resale.

Look for accessories. Original weapons, helmets, backpacks, capes, and tiny pieces can be worth almost as much as, or sometimes more than, the figure. Many collectors will pay extra for a complete figure because finding that exact little blaster on its own is hard. If you find a loose weapon in the bottom of a bin, grab it. It might match something you or someone else already owns.

Then look for damage. Check faces and paint first; collectors care a lot about eyes and main details. Avoid figures with big chunks missing, chew marks, serious discoloration, or heat damage. A little wear is okay and normal for vintage. Heavy yellowing, sticky plastic, or that chalky, brittle feeling means the toy has lived a rough life.

If you’re unsure, think about your own standards. Would you be happy seeing this on your shelf every day? Could you, in good conscience, ask someone for money for it online? If the answer is no, leave it for the next person.

Using simple online checks without turning it into a job

You do not need to stand in the toy aisle running full market analysis on every figure. But for anything that seems promising, a quick phone search can keep you from leaving money on the table or overpaying.

Type the character name plus the line and “figure” into your search bar if you know it, or use visual search tools if you don’t. Once you’ve confirmed what you’re holding, look at recent sold listings on major marketplaces, not just asking prices. People can ask whatever they want; sold prices show what buyers actually pay.

There are also dedicated action figure price and visual guide sites that track lines like Star Wars, Transformers, G.I. Joe, and more. You don’t need to memorize them, but once in a while, it’s worth checking a few figures at home afterward, just to train your eye on what’s common and what’s special.

Keep your research light. Pick one or two figures per trip to look up. Over time, patterns will jump out. You’ll learn which lines are usually worth grabbing on sight and which ones are nostalgia-only with tiny resale.

Deciding what to keep, what to flip, and what to leave

Thrifting action figures can go two ways: you’re buying for your own collection, you’re buying to resell, or a mix of both. Either way, you need a simple money filter in your head.

If you’re buying for yourself, ask whether the figure fills a real gap in your collection or just scratches a momentary nostalgia itch. A $4 figure you love and will display for years is a good buy. A $4 figure that will live in a box in the closet because “it might be worth something someday” is just clutter.

If you’re buying to flip, work backward from likely sale price. If loose, common figures from that line usually sell for $8–$12 plus shipping, paying $5 each at the thrift store leaves you very little margin once you factor in fees and your time. If you can get a figure for $1–$3 that sells consistently around $15–$25, that’s better.

Use those value pillars again: rarity, demand, condition, completeness. A rare character in great condition with original accessories is usually worth grabbing even if the thrift price is a bit higher. A common, beat-up figure missing half its limbs is almost never worth it unless you need parts for customs.

Most important, set a budget per trip. Decide ahead of time how much you’re willing to spend on toys, and stick to it. That keeps this hobby in “fun side hustle” territory instead of “where did my grocery money go.”

Basic storage and care so your finds keep their value

Once you start bringing figures home, how you store them matters. You don’t want to rescue a vintage toy from a dusty bin just to ruin it in your own closet.

Keep figures out of direct sunlight. UV light can fade paint and yellow plastic over time. That’s why some old card bubbles look tea-colored instead of clear. Store loose figures in clean bins or drawers, ideally in individual bags if they have small accessories. If you display them on a shelf, dust regularly and keep them away from windows.

Avoid extreme heat and humidity. Hot attics and damp basements can warp plastic and rust metal parts. Some collectors invest in climate-controlled spaces for very high-end collections, but for normal budgets, just aim for a stable, room-temperature area in your home.

If you clean figures, use a soft cloth or cotton swab with a little mild soap and water, then dry gently. Don’t soak electronics or figures with stickers; water can lift labels and damage internal parts. The goal is to remove surface grime without stripping paint.

Good storage protects your money. A well-kept loose figure might not be worth as much as a sealed one, but it will hold its value better than something tossed into a dusty, sun-baked box.

When grading and high-end selling actually make sense

You might have seen the clear acrylic cases with graded figures inside and wondered if that’s something you should do. Third-party grading services examine figures, assign a condition grade, and seal them in tamper-evident cases with labels. These graded pieces often sell faster and for higher prices because buyers trust the grade and authenticity.

Grading is not cheap. There are fees for each item, plus shipping and insurance. It makes sense when you have a figure that is already worth serious money in good condition, often rare, main characters from big lines, especially if they’re still sealed or nearly mint. In those cases, grading can unlock a much bigger pool of serious buyers who are willing to pay a premium.

For most thrifted loose figures in average shape, grading is overkill. The grading fee might cost more than the toy is worth. You’re usually better off cleaning them, photographing them clearly, and selling them as-is with honest descriptions.

Treat grading like you would treat getting jewelry appraised or coins certified. Save it for the standout pieces that are truly rare or in exceptional condition, not every random toy you pull from a bin.

Know when to walk away

The hardest skill in any collecting hobby is walking away. When you’re in the moment, it’s easy to talk yourself into “maybe this will be valuable someday” or “it’s only $3.” But enough “only $3” buys can eat up real money.

Red flags are simple. If the figure is heavily damaged, badly yellowed, sticky, or missing major pieces, and it’s not a known rare character, leave it. If you look up a figure and see that it sells for $5 shipped all day long, don’t pay $4.99 plus tax for it at the thrift store unless you truly just want it for yourself.

Also listen to your own bandwidth. If you already have boxes of “to list someday” toys at home, be honest about whether you’re actually going to photograph and sell a new pile. Sometimes the best money move is to focus on selling what you have before bringing in more.

Thrifting vintage action figures can be a fun way to mix nostalgia with smart money choices. You’re not going to retire off a bin find, but you can absolutely build a cool collection, make back your costs, and even profit a bit if you stay picky. The more you train your eye on what’s truly valuable, the less you waste on plastic that’s only worth what the thrift store charged.

Strategies for making money outside of a traditional job:

Where to sell sterling silver for the most money: In this post, you’ll learn about the difference between sterling silver and other types of silver, and find places to make the most money from selling your sterling.

What can I sell to make money (or resell)? 38 ideas: Dive into this article to discover things in your house you can sell for quick cash — and where to sell.

What sells quickly at pawn shops: In this post, you’ll find ways to navigate pawnshops, understand how they work and what items are most in demand.

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If you have old electronics sitting around your home, you may be able to recycle them for cash for the precious metals they contain. However, the quantities are small, so it usually makes sense if you have a lot of electronics to recycle.

There are roughly 0.016 grams of gold in one smartphone. At today’s gold price above $5,000, per gram, that would be worth about $2.

If you have a lot of electronic scrap at home or in your business, this post will explain:

What is electronic scrap?

Electronic scrap, or e-scrap, describes the valuable parts of electronics after you can no longer use them. Whether you are upgrading a laptop or smartphone, or if you have electronics that no longer work, there may be value in the parts.

These are some common electronics people may be able to recycle: 

• Cellphones
• Smartphones
• Desktop computers
• Laptop computers
• Computer monitors
• Tablets
• Circuit boards
• Hard drives (internal and external)
• RAM memory (IC chips, processors)
• Printers
• Scanners
• Fax machines
• Copiers
• Keyboards
• Mice
• Docking stations

When you recycle electronics, you should do so responsibly. This means removing personal data from your devices, including laptops, smartphones, and tablets. 

The Federal Trade Commission (FTC) advises you to transfer your data to a safe place such as:

• Physical, external hard drive
• New computer
• Encrypted cloud-based storage service like Google Drive, Dropbox, or iCloud²

After confirming your data is safe, you can erase your hard drive, which is also known as a factory reset. This will erase all data. You can find instructions on how to do this from your device’s manufacturer. 

If you plan to recycle your devices but not sell them, the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) advises using a certified electronics recycler like GreenerGadgets or Call2Recycle.³ These recyclers use responsible, eco-friendly practices and ensure data destruction.

Of course, you’ll want to scrap your items responsibly, and that also means ensuring your personal data is protected. That’s why it’s so important to choose an electronics scrap business that offers secure data removal from the electronic devices you wish to scrap.

Electronic scrap prices

Some parts of your old electronic devices could be made of scrap metals like: 

• Gold
• Silver
• Copper
• Aluminum
• Palladium
• Platinum
• Cobalt
• Tantalum
• Tin
• Zinc
• Neodymium

What you’ll earn when recycling electronic scrap devices changes based on what precious metals are inside, their weight, and the current price of those metals. For example, some electronics components like motherboards, circuit boards and processors, contain more gold, palladium, and copper than other electronics.

For perspective, based on the average smartphone containing 0.016 grams of gold, it would take about 63 smartphones to recover one gram. However, you’d only need 10 laptops to recover the same amount.⁴ 

Where to find a “scrap yard near me” to sell scrap metal

Precious metals in electronics: List of items you could recover for gold and more

Precious metals like gold and silver are used in phones, computers, keyboards and other devices, which means you can get back some money recycling parts and cut down on environmental waste.

Gold in cellphones

You can find gold plating throughout old cellphones and smartphones — especially expensive models. Gold is often used because it doesn’t corrode and conducts electricity well. 

While some parts are plated in gold, others are made of gold. This will vary depending on your phone, but in general you can find gold in or on:

• Connectors
• Wiring
• Circuit boards
• Chips 
• SIM cards

According to the U.S. Geological Survey, older cellphones contain about 0.034 grams of gold.⁵ (though the amount will vary slightly by phone model — newer models contain less gold).

Gold in computers: What computer parts have gold?

Computers are an excellent source of gold because they are larger than cellphones. That means the parts are heavier. The higher the weight in gold, the more money you can make.

You can find gold in:

• Circuit boards
• Motherboards
• Hard drives

The older the device, the more gold it likely contains. That’s because older electronics like VCRs, camcorders, and scanners tend to have larger components.

Start by going through your home to look for unused electronics, and ask family and friends if they have electronics they no longer use or want.

You can also join groups like Freecycle or post an ad on Craigslist or Nextdoor requesting old electronics. 

Electronic scrap yards also have junk computers that you can take parts from, free of charge. Be sure to look for old servers and mainframes from businesses, as they contain multiple hard drives, circuit boards, and motherboards.

Here's a video on scrapping a computer tower:

Other things to sell for cash:

16 ways to get rid of old appliances
Vintage comic books worth a small fortune
How to thrift vintage handbags
Where to sell your grandma's silver flatware
16 (non-sports) trading cards that could be worth a bundle
12 tips for spotting valuable glassware at the thrift store

Gold in computer circuit boards

Circuit boards provide a lot of small, intricate gold parts. These pieces of gold are often woven throughout the boards. Dell Technologies reports you can likely get 5 troy ounces of gold per ton (2,000 pounds) of P.C. circuit boards.⁶

Gold in computer motherboards

Motherboards — a circuit board that contains the principal components of a computer or other device — offer a lot of gold parts, such as connectors, ports, pins, and sockets. Since motherboards are larger than other circuit boards, you can typically get more gold from them.

Gold in computer hard drives

Old hard drives are full of metals such as gold, silver, copper, aluminum, and palladium. They contain many parts that professionals can extract. Connector pins and other contacts usually have gold plating, as do circuit boards in hard drives.

Palladium in computers

There are very small amounts of palladium in computer parts. You’ll usually find it in hard drives and circuit boards.

Is it worth it? Should you extract gold from electronics?

The following lists the average amount of gold found in common electronic devices and how much it's worth based on current gold prices, though most electronic scrap buyers won't pay you the full value of your gold if they have to extract it from an assembled device:

• Older cellphones – 0.034 grams, about $2
• Smartphones – 0.016 grams, about $1
• Desktop computers – 0.2 grams, about $12
• Laptop computers – 0.1 grams, about $6

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Electronic buy-back businesses and programs

Unless you have a large number of old electronics — for instance, if you own a company and want to upgrade all of your office computers — you won't make a lot of money selling electronics for scrap.

To get the best offer for your scrap electronics, check with an electronics buy-back dealer or program. These places will pay a set price for your unwanted electronics, no matter the quantity.

Amazon Trade-In

Amazon Trade-In pays you for eligible used electronics. In turn, Amazon refurbishes and resells them. If your item is not eligible for trade in, Amazon offers free recycling of your unwanted electronics. You must have or register for a free Amazon account to get started.

Amazon accepts:

• Smartphones
• Game consoles 
• Routers
• Smart speakers
• eReaders (Kindle)
• Media players (Fire TV, Roku)
• Tablets
• Home security (Blink, etc.)
• Video game consoles

Amazon provides:

• 10-20% trade in promotional discount towards a new device
• Amazon gift card with the cash value for the offer
• Trade-in tool to give you an estimate of what your cash offer will be
• Free shipping via UPS or use an approved local drop-off within 45 days of offer
• One promotional discount per customer account per 90-day calendar quarter (starting Jan. 1, Apr. 1, Jul. 1, and Oct. 1) 

You can make up to five device trades in one transaction but only two of the same device in a calendar quarter.

What people think about Amazon trade in

Although Amazon is BBB-accredited and has a B rating, it has poor reviews. It has 1.16 out of 5 stars from over 3,700 reviews with the BBB and a 1.7 out of 5 rating on Trustpilot based on more than 29,000 reviews.

On Reddit, some have expressed that the trade in program:

• Could use better communication in customer service
• Lost its items during shipping

Amazon Trade-In Program
byu/the_neil_show inamazonprime

But there are others Reddit users with positive experiences trading in electronics. They also noted that Amazon worked to fix any issues when things didn't go as planned:

How does the trade-in process work?
byu/ClaryVenture inkindle

Best Buy trade-in

Best Buy offers a trade-in program for used electronics at most locations. They accept electronics in any condition except very poor. If the item’s value cannot be found in their trade-in estimator tool, Best Buy offers free recycling.

Best Buy accepts:

• iPhones
• iPads
• Apple notebooks
• Laptops
• Samsung smartphones
• Google Pixel smartphones
• Microsoft Surface
• Gaming consoles and hardware
• Headphones
• Smart watches
• Streaming devices

Best Buy provides:

• Online offer estimator
• Cash offer issued via a Best Buy gift card
• Limited-time deals and discounts with trade-ins
• In-store trading at participating locations
• Online trading (as approved by Best Buy if your local store does not take trade ins)

There is a three-item limit of same-model electronic devices and a five-item limit for same model cellphones in a calendar year (12 months).

What people think about Best Buy trade-in

Best Buy has been accredited since 1970 and carries an A+ rating but only a 1.08 out of 5 stars based on about 2,000 customer reviews. It doesn’t fare well on Trustpilot either, with 1.3 out of 5 stars from more than 6,700 reviewers. That said, there are thousands of Best Buys around the United States with many loyal customers.

Experiences shared from Reddit users, although few, are mostly positive, and say that the process was smooth, fast, and easy.

best buy trade in experience
byu/bobby_ashfaq inGooglePixel

Buyback Boss

Buyback Boss buys used cellphones in any condition. It also buys a range of other electronics, listed on its site.

Buyback Boss accepts:

• Smartphones
• Macs
• Laptops
• PCs
• Drones
• iPads
• Tablets
• Apple watches
• Game consoles
• TVs
• Monitors
• Cameras

The list of items they buy is extensive, so it is best to use their quote wizard tool to see if your item is listed.

Buyback Boss provides:

• Instant quotes using an easy online tool
• A free, prepaid shipping label to mail your devices
• The ability to sell multiple devices at one time
• A 14-day price lock on the offer
• Payouts to your bank, through PayPal, or on a gift card
• Payments issued once item is accepted and verified (usually takes seven business days)
• Free return of the item if you don't accept an updated quote based on condition

What people think about BuyBack Boss

Buyback Boss is accredited and A- rated with the BBB and has 4.5 out of 5 stars from customers. On Trustpilot, it has an excellent rating with 89% of its reviews at 5 stars.

Decluttr

Decluttr has an F BBB rating but a 4.3 stars on TrustPilot where nearly 30,000 people have reviewed it. To sell on Decluttr, you must list at least one electronic item worth more than $5. The company accepts electronics of all conditions (good, poor, or faulty). You must register for a free account online or through the Decluttr app to get started.

Decluttr accepts: 

• Smartphones
• iPads
• Tablets
• Macbooks
• iMacs
• AirPods
• Headphones
• Speakers
• Game consoles
• Smart watches

Decluttr provides:

• A free instant evaluation of everything you want to sell
• A 28-day price lock on the offer
• Free return of your items if the offer changes
• Free shipping and insurance through Decluttr shipping partners like the UPS Store
• Three payment options: direct deposit, PayPal, or donated to your favorite charity

What people think about Decluttr

Decluttr is a BBB-accredited business with an A rating and 2.97 out of 5 stars from customers reviews. It has an excellent rating on Trustpilot, with 4.3 out of 5 stars from over 27,000 reviews.

Some Reddit users say that Decluttr:

• Changes the cash offer after they receive the items
• Is not the best place to get top-dollar for your old electronics
• Is better for getting rid of old DVDs, CDs, and video games

Beware Decluttr
byu/Kimmalah inFlipping

ecoATM Smartphone kiosks

If you’re near one, you can use an ecoATM kiosk to get cash for your unwanted smartphone. There are over 5,000 kiosks across the United States. They are in stores like Walmart, Dollar General, and Kroger.

ecoATM accepts:

• Smartphones
• Tablets
• Mp3 players

Some ecoATMs do not accept tablets. Check the location finder to know before you go.

ecoATM offers:

• An online payout estimator and a seven-day price lock when you use the ecoATM app
• Instant evaluation of the smartphone at the kiosk for a final cash offer
• An instant cash payout when you accept the offer

What people think about ecoATM

On Trustpilot, ecoATM is rated as average with a 3.6 out of 5 stars from over 4,500 reviewers. Currently the BBB profile for this business is being updated.

There’s a lot of talk about ecoATM on Reddit. After combing through several Reddit threads, the consensus is that the company:

• Sometimes has kiosks that malfunction, taking your smartphone but not giving you the cash and has poor customer service to address the issue
• Has very low cash offers

EcoATM
byu/honesttryingtohelp inReview

Does your walmart have one of these? “EcoATM” You can give it your older used phone for some pocket change and it will “keep the phone out of a landfill by recycling it” but ive never actually looked into it.
by inAnticonsumption

ItsWorthMore

ItsWorthMore is an electronics trade-in business that also sells refurbished devices. You must create a free ItsWorthMore account to get started.

ItsWorthMore accepts:

• Smartphones
• Tablets
• Laptops
• Desktops
• Smart watches
• Game consoles
• Graphics cards
• Cameras
• Apple audio equipment 
• DJI drones
• Virtual reality equipment
• Monitors

ItsWorthMore provides:

• An instant quote tool for your electronics
• A free shipping label to mail your items
• Expedited payouts via PayPal, Zelle, and digital check within two business days of approval (approval takes four to seven business days)
• Payouts via physical check in five to 10 business days after approval 

What people think about ItsWorthMore

ItsWorthMore has mostly positive reviews. It is BBB-accredited with an A+ rating and 3.62 out of 5 stars. The business has 4.8 out of 5 stars on Google, 4.8 out of 5 stars in Sitejabber, and Trustpilot reviewers give it a 4.6 out of 5 stars.

One Reddit user shared a positive experience using the service, calling out:

• Good pricing
• Fair evaluation
• Good customer experience

OCBuyBack

OCBuyBack purchases used electronics but also sells refurbished cellphones.

OCBuyBack accepts:

• Smartphones
• Cellphones
• Tablets
• iPods
• Smart watches
• GoPros
• Game consoles

OCBuyBack provides:

• Free prepaid shipping label
• A box to ship your items (if you don’t have one)
• 14-day offer guarantee
• Payment by check or PayPal sent one business day after item receipt
• Unlimited items to sell (contact them for sales of 50 devices or more)
• Free returns if you don’t accept the final offer

What people think about OCBuyBack

OCBuyBack is accredited and has an A rating with the BBB with 3 out of 5 stars from two customer reviews. It has an excellent rating on Trustpilot with 4.4 out of 5 stars, but many of the 5-star reviews are from people who submitted one review on Trustpilot. It’s good to check out reviewers who have submitted multiple reviews on different businesses.

OCBuyBack has an excellent rating on Yelp, with 4.4 out of 5 stars. Most reviewers shared that they had a good experience and got a fair price.

SellCell

SellCell has been around since 2008 and guarantees the most cash for your used phone. That’s because they compare prices from more than 40 buy-back companies so you can choose the highest offer. They do not buy the devices but act as a comparison site to help you choose a buyer. They accept phones in any condition.

SellCell accepts:

• Smartphones
• Cellphones
• Tablets
• Apple devices
• Smart watches
• Gaming consoles
• GoPro
• Amazon Kindle
• Wireless headphones
• Smart home devices

SellCell provides:

• A fast offer comparison from multiple buy-back businesses
• Best price guarantee
• SellCell pays double the difference if you find a higher offer on your own

What people think about SellCell

SellCell has an excellent rating of 4.5 out of 5 stars on TrustPilot but there are only eight reviews. SellCell doesn't have a BBB profile. There are a few mentions about SellCell on Reddit but no dedicated threads. Mostly, Reddit users mention it as an option to sell a used cellphone.

How to safely extract gold and more from electronics

The gold parts in old cellphones, smartphones, and computers are often very small and require professional help for extraction. That’s because gold extraction typically involves extreme heat and chemicals like nitric acid. Check out this video from BBC Earth Lab that shows the extensive process:

CashforElectronicScrapUSA.com (CFES), has the resources to handle recovering other precious metals like silver or copper. CFES, operated by BBB A+-rated CJ Environmental in Canton, Mass. works with businesses, schools, and individuals. 

If you are a business or school that has a large volume of scrap electronics, you can arrange for a free pickup by CFES in the New England or tri-state area including: Connecticut, Maine, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, Rhode Island and Vermont.

Or, you can ship your electronics to CFES for free via FedEx or arrange for free freight shipping to the corporate office in Canton, Mass., by filling out the request form on CashforElectronicScrapUSA.com. You can usually expect to receive a check within 10 business days of receipt and appraisal.

Individuals with a few items to scrap, can contact CJ Environmental for a prepaid, insured mailing label. You can call or fill out the online quote request form. Once they receive your e-scrap and appraise its value, they can mail you a check or deposit funds via PayPal as fast as 24 hours.

In addition to electronic scrap, if you have gold and silver jewelry you no longer want, you can trade it in for cash at CashforGoldUSA.com or CashforSilverUSA.com, our top choices for selling gold, silver, and other precious metals online. This is why:

• A+ rating from the Better Business Bureau
• 24-hour payouts
• 10% bonus if shipped within 7 days
• Price match and free return guarantee
• Insured up to $150,000 by Lloyds of London while held (plus up to $5,000 through Jewelers Mutual Insurance while in transit)

Get an offer today from CashforGoldUSA >>

How to scrap circuit boards for gold and silver

The largest amount of gold on a circuit board is on clean gold fingers. They are narrow, shiny connectors that run along the edges of circuit boards.

To scrap a circuit board for gold and silver:

1. Unscrew your laptop or computer (make sure it’s unplugged from any electrical outlets). You can Google “how to open your laptop” and add the brand and model for specific instructions. For example, “how to open your Dell Inspiron 15 laptop.” 
2. Locate the circuit board you wish to remove. You’ll need a small screwdriver made for electronics, which can be found in any hardware store.
3. Remove the screws holding it in place.
4. Detach any connections.
5. Take the circuit board out of the computer.

How to scrap motherboards for gold

To scrap a motherboard, you also have to remove it from its device:

1. Unplug and open the laptop or desktop computer, following Google instructions for your specific model.
2. Locate the motherboard. The motherboard is a very large circuit board. You can search Google for “how to remove a motherboard” for help. 
3. Using the proper-sized screwdriver, remove the screws that connect the motherboard to the computer.
4. Disconnect any attachments like cables and wires that feed the motherboard.
5. Take the motherboard out of the computer.

You can also go to the manufacturer’s website to download a product manual or contact their customer service department by phone or email if you need more help.

How to scrap a hard drive

A hard drive’s scrap value can vary, depending on whether you have the included circuit board or not. 

To remove the hard drive:

1. Open the desktop or laptop computer. 
2. Locate the hard drive. Hard drives look like a large rectangular box, and are often encased in metal.
3. Detach any connectors.
4. Remove any screws holding it in place.
5. Pull the hard drive out of the computer.

Where to recycle e-waste and old computers for cash

You can recycle your old devices by mail or in-person at an electronic scrap yard — search ​​”electronic scrap yard near me” — or through a reputable online scrap electronic buyer like CJ Environmental.

Since electronic equipment does not break down in landfills, recycling e-waste and old computers for cash is a smart way to reduce waste, remove clutter from your home, and earn money.

CashforElectronicScrapUSA.com

CashforElectronicScrapUSA.com (CFES USA) is a reputable option for businesses and schools to recycle old electronics. It’s run by CJ Environmental, which boasts an A+ Better Business Bureau rating.

CFES USAs offers top-dollar for electronics scrap. They also provide proof of data removal and secure destruction upon request.

CJ Environmental helps businesses and individuals recycle e-waste, old computers, cellphones, and other electronics for cash.

Electronic scrap yards “near me”

If you want to work with a local business to recycle your electronic scrap, search Google for “electronic scrap yards near me” to see a list of local electronic scrap yards. 

You can contact the scrap yards to find out if they pay for scrap, as some actually require a fee to scrap certain items, much like companies that help you get rid of junk.

33 things to sell to make money from the stuff around your house

FAQs about scrapping electronics like a computer for cash

Are electronics worth scrapping?

That depends on how many unused electronics you have and whether you have the knowledge/ability to extract the valuable parts within them. If you have a single cellphone, for example, you may only get about $2 for its scrap content.

Electronic scrap buyers will pay you more for individual parts like hard drives or the gold fingers they contain than unassembled electronic devices because of the work it takes to extract their metal content.

If you are looking to make real money scrapping electronics, you’d have to scrap items in bulk. If not, e-scrap can be an occasional way to make a few extra dollars.

How can I get money for old electronics?

Work with a reputable business like CJ Environmental to recycle your old electronics for cash. Once your item is received and appraised, you can expect a payout in as little as 24 hours via paper check or PayPal.

Which electronics contain the most gold?

Older, large electronics have the most gold inside of them. Think Betamax, large VCRs, and outdated, bulky desktop systems or network computers with multiple hard drives.

How much is a scrap laptop worth?

What a scrap laptop is worth depends on what shape it’s in. According to Boardsort.com, a non-working laptop with a good screen (no cracks) can go for as much as $1.10 per pound. Laptops can weigh between 2-8 pounds. If the laptop screen is broken, you can get $0.70 per pound.⁷

How much do circuit boards scrap for?

Circuit boards come in all sizes and functions, from laptop motherboards to small cellphone boards. If you are able to extract and clean parts like gold fingers, you could get as much as $40 per pound according to Boardsort.com and you can expect anywhere from $0.20 to $14 per pound for most circuit boards.⁸

How much do circuit boards scrap for?

Circuit boards come in all sizes and functions, from laptop motherboards to small cellphone boards. If you are able to extract and clean parts like gold fingers, you could get as much as $40 per pound according to Boardsort.com. You can expect anywhere from $0.20 to $13 per pound for most circuit boards.

What should I do with an old TV?

You can recycle a TV for cash, whether it is old or you just don’t need it anymore. You can sell older model televisions, also known as tube TVs and projection TVs, as well as newer models like flat screens and LED TVs on sites like:

• ebay
• Craigslist
• OfferUp
• Facebook Marketplace
• VarageSale

Or, you can search for “TV repair shops near me” to see if a local business is willing to pay you for your TV.

If your TV is broken, you can likely still get cash for it because some buyers are interested in scrapping its parts. Just be very detailed with your description and take lots of pictures if you sell it online or through an app.

SOURCES

1. “Metallic resources in smartphones.” ScienceDirect. October 2020. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0301420720301392
2. “How to Remove Your Personal Information Before You Get Rid of Your Computer.” July 2022. Federal Trade Commission Consumer Advice. https://consumer.ftc.gov/articles/how-remove-your-personal-information-you-get-rid-your-computer
3. “Certified Electronics Recyclers.” February 27, 2023. United States Environmental Protection Agency. https://www.epa.gov/smm-electronics/certified-electronics-recyclers
4. “How Much Gold Is in Your Computer and How Efficient It Is to Reclaim It.”  Interesting Engineering. Jun 21, 2023. https://interestingengineering.com/innovation/how-much-gold-is-in-your-computer-and-how-efficient-it-is-to-reclaim-it
5. “Recycled Cell Phones—A Treasure Trove of Valuable Metals.” U.S. Geological Survey. https://pubs.usgs.gov/fs/2006/3097/fs2006-3097.pdf
6. “How Much Gold is in Smartphones and Computers?” Dell Technologies. https://www.dell.com/en-us/blog/how-much-gold-is-in-smartphones-and-computers/
7. “Boardsort.com current payout rates per pound.” January 27, 2024. Boardsort. https://boardsort.com/payout.php
8. “Boardsort.com current payout rates per pound.” January 27, 2024. Boardsort. https://boardsort.com/payout.php

Author: Emma Johnson

Cleaning out a closet or attic, you might toss old ticket stubs, seat cushions, or random glassware without a second thought. If any of it is from a Super Bowl, pause before you pitch it. Some of those “junk drawer” pieces are now serious collectibles.

A handful of items tied to early games and big-name players have sold for thousands, even six figures. But plenty of smaller pieces, like vintage pennants, drink glasses, and stadium swag, can still bring in $40, $100, or a few hundred dollars if you find the right buyer.

Whether you inherited a box from a die-hard fan or love browsing estate sales and thrift stores, here are just some of the Super Bowl items that could be worth real money.

High-grade program from Super Bowl III

Programs from the game where New York Jets quarterback Joe Namath “guaranteed” a win over the heavily favored Baltimore Colts are especially hot. Super Bowl III changed how people saw the AFL and NFL, and fans saved many programs, but most are creased, stained, or written in.

Condition is everything here. In December 2024, a professionally graded CGC 8.5 program from Super Bowl III sold for $576. Lesser copies with light wear might land in the $100–$250 range, while beat-up ones may only be worth $40–$75.

If you have an old Super Bowl program, check the spine for splits, look for writing on the cover, and flip through to make sure no pages are missing. Slip it into a protective sleeve or top-loader, and compare recent sales before you decide whether it’s worth grading.

1968 Super Bowl II press guide

Press guides were never meant for fans. They were printed for media members and team staff, so far fewer exist today. The guide from Super Bowl II, again featuring the Packers, is a good example of how niche paper items can have real value.

One Super Bowl II press guide sold for about $198 in 2022, and another brought $507.88 back in 2013, depending on condition. That’s the kind of range you’ll often see: well-preserved, clean copies go higher, with heavy wear or writing pulling prices down.

You’re most likely to find a press guide in a box of “office stuff” from someone who worked in sports or media, or at an estate sale where the owner had season tickets. Look for intact covers, no missing pages, and no major water damage. Even if yours isn’t near the top of the price range, a couple hundred dollars for something that looks like a boring booklet isn’t bad.

1970 Minnesota Vikings Super Bowl IV souvenir pennant

Felt pennants were a cheap souvenir at the time, so parents and kids bought them, pinned them to the wall, and forgot about them. Today, early Super Bowl pennants in good condition are popular with collectors who like bold colors and retro designs.

A 1970 Vikings “World Champions” pennant celebrating Super Bowl IV sold for $125 at auction, even with some wear. That’s solid money for something that may have been tacked up in a childhood bedroom.

Look for older, full-size felt pennants, ideally with bright graphics and no big chunks missing from the tip. Light pinholes and small creases are normal; heavy fading, mildew, or kids’ marker doodles will hurt value. Flatten them gently in a clean, dry place and store in a plastic sleeve or between acid-free boards until you’re ready to sell.

1972–73 Miami “World Champions” pennant from the perfect season

The 1972 Miami Dolphins went undefeated and won Super Bowl VII, still the only perfect season in NFL history. Anything tied to that run tends to sell well, including simple wall pennants celebrating the “World Champions.”

Vintage Dolphins championship pennants from that era can be seen on resale sites with asking prices around $100 and up (for example, a 1972–73 “World Champions” pennant listed near $108). Actual selling prices vary, but it’s fair to say a clean, bright example could bring $60–$120.

Check both sides of a pennant for fading and stains, and be careful with the felt edges, they tear easily if you tug. If yours looks promising, compare it closely to online photos so you know which exact variant you have, then search sold listings for that style to get a realistic price.

Apple-branded seat cushion from Super Bowl XIX

Sometimes the sponsor logo matters as much as the game. For Super Bowl XIX, held at Stanford Stadium in 1985, Apple handed out branded seat cushions. That game featured the San Francisco 49ers and the Dolphins, but to Apple collectors, the cushion is also early tech history.

One Apple Computer Super Bowl XIX seat cushion sold at auction in 2026 for $330. Condition, of course, matters: the cleaner and brighter the Apple logo and Super Bowl graphics, the better.

You’re most likely to find something like this in the home of someone who worked in tech in the 1980s, especially in California, or in a box of old stadium freebies. Check for dry foam, rips, and fading. Even more generic Super Bowl seat cushions from the 1980s and ’90s can bring $20–$50 as fun display pieces, so don’t assume that worn cushion in the garage is worthless.

Pairs of late-’80s Super Bowl stadium seat cushions

Not every stadium freebie is tied to a famous brand, but collectors still like them for the design and nostalgia. A pair of original seat cushions from Super Bowl XXII in San Diego, for example, shows up online as a set with a price around $20. That’s not retirement money, but it’s more than most people expect for old foam.

Many families shoved these into closets after the game and never used them again. If you find a matching pair from the same Super Bowl, especially with clean logos and straps intact, you’re in the right ballpark for a $20–$40 sale. Unmatched, heavily stained cushions may only fetch a few dollars, but they still appeal to hardcore team fans.

Avoid trying to “deep clean” the fabric, because aggressive scrubbing or harsh chemicals can wreck the graphics. A light surface wipe, gentle drying, and good photos are usually enough if you decide to list them.

1994 Super Bowl XXVIII souvenir glass mug

Stadium glassware and barware are easy to overlook. They’re heavy, take up space, and often end up at thrift stores. But Super Bowl-branded mugs and glasses from the 1980s and ’90s can sell in the $15–$35 range apiece, especially if they feature bright logos and no chips.

One example: a glass mug from Super Bowl XXVIII has an asking price of about $30 on a vintage marketplace. Sets of different Super Bowl mugs, or full runs for one team, can be even more attractive to collectors and bar owners.

Look for heavy, good-quality glass with crisp printing and an official NFL or Super Bowl logo. Small scratches from washing are fine; chips around the rim or a worn logo will drag down the value. If you have a whole cabinet full of these from years of watching the big game, grouping them into lots by decade or team can make them easier to sell.

“Monsters of the Midway” 1985 Chicago Bears rocks glasses

The 1985 Chicago Bears are one of those iconic teams fans never stop talking about. Souvenir rocks glasses and bar sets with that season’s graphics, including references to their Super Bowl XX win, still get attention on resale sites.

A vintage set of Bears “Monsters of the Midway” team rocks glasses from the mid-1980s recently showed up as sold out at around $30–$40 for the set, and similar NFL rocks glasses often sell in that same range depending on team and condition. Individually, a single glass might bring $10–$15; complete sets with all original pieces do best.

Check for cloudiness from dishwashers, worn graphics, and chips on the rim. Glassware is fragile and heavy to ship, so if you’re selling online, factor in packing costs. For local resale, sports bars and man-cave decorators are obvious buyers. A little cluster of glasses from a famous season can easily turn into $30–$60 cash.

Lots of multiple vintage Super Bowl pennants

Sometimes value comes from the pile, not the single piece. Auction houses occasionally sell mixed lots of vintage sports pennants, including multiple Super Bowls in one group. One lot of six vintage sports pennants, featuring Super Bowl XI and other designs, sold for $75 a few years ago.

If you open a storage bin and find a dozen different team and Super Bowl pennants, don’t assume you have to list each one separately. Sets like this appeal to decorators, shop owners, and collectors who like “instant wall coverage.” A mix of 1970s and 1980s Super Bowl pennants in decent shape can often bring $50–$100 as a lot.

Lay them flat, photograph the best graphics, and be honest about creases or small tears. Keeping them together is less work for you and still turns forgotten felt into real money.n a presentation box, keep it safe and do some careful research before you dismiss it.

Tom Brady–signed Super Bowl XXXIX souvenir football

You don’t need game use to have a valuable Brady piece. A Wilson souvenir football from Super Bowl XXXIX, commemorating the championship where the New England Patriots beat the Eagles, sold for $2,069 in 2025. It was a clean signature, on an official Super Bowl-branded ball, with third-party authentication.

Brady-signed Super Bowl items often land in the $1,000–$3,000 range when they’re limited, well documented, and in great condition. More common signed footballs from regular-season events, camp signings, or mass autograph sessions might go for a few hundred instead.

If you have a Brady autograph, note what’s special about the item itself. Is it a generic NFL ball, or does it clearly reference a specific Super Bowl? Check for certifications from major authenticators, and compare your exact ball to recent sales to see where it might land.

Championship ring from the 1972 Miami Dolphins perfect season

Original Super Bowl rings are at the top of the food chain for many collectors, and the 1972 Dolphins are among the most desirable. Their perfect season and Super Bowl VII win make any ring from that team’s inner circle a big deal.

In 2024, a Super Bowl VII championship ring presented to a minority team owner sold for $75,000. Rings from star players can go even higher. Family-issued and front-office rings usually bring less than star-player rings but are still five-figure items.

Genuine Super Bowl rings are heavy, high-karat gold, and often made by firms like Jostens. They usually come with strong provenance, paperwork, letters from the original owner, or a chain of custody through major auction houses. If you ever stumble onto a ring in an estate situation, do not try to resize, polish, or wear it. Put it in a safe place and get expert advice.

Strategies for making money outside of a traditional job:

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What sells quickly at pawn shops: In this post, you’ll find ways to navigate pawnshops, understand how they work and what items are most in demand.

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Byline: Katy Willis