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You need a clear, simple one that fits your real life and covers the basics: income, health care, housing, taxes, and family. Here’s what to focus on in these last five working years.

1. Get brutally honest about your retirement budget

Before anything else, you need a realistic picture of what retirement will actually cost. Not the dreamy version, the real monthly bills: housing, food, gas, health insurance, phones, streaming, gifts for grandkids, travel, home repairs, and the random stuff that always pops up.

Use a simple worksheet or online tool to map your current spending and then adjust for a retired life. The Consumer Financial Protection Bureau has basic retirement-planning tools to help you think through income and expenses.

Then list your expected retirement income: Social Security, any pensions, withdrawals from 401(k)s or IRAs, part-time work, rental income, and so on. Compare the two numbers. If the income number is lower than the expense number, that gap is your five-year marching order.

This isn’t about judging past choices. It’s about seeing the truth on paper so you can decide what to change, lowering some bills, saving more, or shifting your retirement date or lifestyle expectations.

2. Decide how and when you’ll claim Social Security

Your Social Security decision is one of the biggest levers you have in these years. You can usually claim as early as 62, get your full benefit at your full retirement age, or boost your check by waiting up to age 70.

Use the Social Security benefit calculators to estimate what you’d get at different ages based on your actual earnings record. Check your “my Social Security” account to make sure your earnings history is correct; mistakes there can cost you for the rest of your life.

Five years out is also a good time to think about how Social Security fits with the rest of your plan. If you expect a shorter life, heavy physical wear and tear, or no other income, claiming earlier might make sense. If you’re healthy and can cover early years from savings or work, waiting can act like buying yourself a bigger inflation-protected pension.

There’s no one right answer. What matters is that you’ve run the numbers for your situation instead of picking an age because “that’s what everyone does.”

3. Use the last five years to supercharge savings

Your final working years are prime time to shovel money into retirement accounts. Once you hit age 50, you can make “catch-up” contributions to most workplace plans and IRAs, on top of the regular limits.

For example, the IRS has raised 401(k) employee deferral limits and catch-up amounts for people 50 and older, so by 2026 many workers can put significantly more into their plans each year. That extra five-year push can easily add tens of thousands to your nest egg once you factor in investment growth.

If you can’t max everything out, that’s fine. Aim to increase your contribution rate every year when you get raises, or anytime a debt drops off. Even moving from 5% to 10% of your pay going into a 401(k) matters. If your employer offers a match, treat getting the full match as non-negotiable, it’s part of your compensation.

You’ll feel the squeeze in your take-home pay now, but that’s better than feeling the squeeze every month for the rest of your life.

4. Clean up debt and right-size your big bills

High-interest debt is a problem at any age, but it’s especially brutal when you’re about to live on a fixed income. Credit cards, personal loans, car loans, and “buy now, pay later” plans can crowd out essentials once your paycheck shrinks.

Five years out, make a simple list of all your debts, interest rates, and minimums. Focus first on anything over about 8–10% interest,/

that’s the stuff quietly eating your retirement. You might use part of a bonus or tax refund to knock down the worst balances. If you’re overwhelmed, talking to a reputable nonprofit credit counselor can help you see whether a debt management plan makes sense.

This is also the time to look hard at your big fixed expenses. Can you refinance or pay down a mortgage before retirement? Swap an expensive car for something cheaper while you still qualify for a loan? Drop unused subscriptions and extras? Every big bill you reduce now is one less thing to stress about later.

The goal isn’t to be debt-free at all costs. It’s to walk into retirement with payments you can comfortably handle on your new income.

5. Decide where and how you’ll live

Housing will likely be your largest expense in retirement. Five years out is the right time to get honest about whether your current home still makes sense.

Make two lists: what you love about where you live, and what worries you. That might include stairs, property taxes, yard work, being far from medical care, or simply having more space than you want to maintain. Tools and checklists from retirement and aging organizations can help you think through costs and lifestyle tradeoffs.

If you want to downsize, move closer to family, or relocate to a lower-cost area, start scouting now. Research property taxes, insurance, and the cost of living, not just home prices. If you plan to “age in place,” factor in the cost of future home modifications like grab bars, ramps, or bathroom changes.

Moving in retirement isn’t just a money question, it’s also about community, weather, and health. But whichever way you lean, making the decision while you still have steady income gives you more control and better financing options.

6. Tune your investments so they match this new phase

The portfolio that worked when you were 35 and had decades to ride out crashes may be too aggressive when you’re 60 with a five-year runway. On the flip side, going all cash can leave you exposed to inflation for 20 or 30 years. The average 65-year-old today can expect to spend roughly 18–20 years in retirement, sometimes more.

Five years out is a good time to check your mix of stocks, bonds, and cash. Many big firms offer free online retirement checkups and tools that show whether your current mix lines up with your age and risk tolerance.

You don’t have to day-trade or chase hot funds. Usually, it’s about gradually shifting some money from pure growth into more stable investments, while still keeping enough in stocks to help your money grow over a long retirement.

If you’re not confident doing this yourself, consider a session with a fee-only financial planner or a CFP professional. One or two hours of advice can prevent very expensive mistakes.

7. Map out health insurance and Medicare

Health care becomes a central budget line in retirement, and the rules are not simple. If you’re retiring before 65, you’ll need a plan for coverage until Medicare kicks in, employer retiree coverage, a spouse’s plan, or a Marketplace plan through HealthCare.gov.

For Medicare, your Initial Enrollment Period is a seven-month window around your 65th birthday, starting three months before you turn 65 and ending three months after that month. Missing that window when you don’t have other qualifying coverage can mean late enrollment penalties that follow you for life.

Use this five-year window to learn the basics: the difference between Original Medicare and Medicare Advantage, how Medigap works, and what drug coverage looks like. Compare that to your current employer plan so you’re not shocked by the change in premiums and deductibles.

If you have a Health Savings Account through a high-deductible plan, remember that HSA money can be used tax-free for qualified medical expenses in retirement.

8. Understand taxes and required minimum distributions

Retirement is not a tax-free zone. Traditional 401(k)s and IRAs are taxed when you withdraw. Social Security can be partly taxable. And at a certain point, the IRS forces you to take money out of tax-deferred accounts through required minimum distributions, or RMDs.

Right now, most people must start RMDs from traditional IRAs and many workplace plans at age 73. If you wait until the April 1 deadline for your first RMD, you may have to take two in the same calendar year, which can spike your taxable income. Planning withdrawals a few years ahead can keep you out of higher tax brackets and avoid penalties.

Five years before retirement, look at all your accounts: pre-tax, Roth, and taxable. Think about which ones you’ll tap first. Some people work with a tax pro to see whether partial Roth conversions make sense while their income is still relatively high but before RMDs begin.

You don’t have to become a tax nerd. But knowing the basics lets you keep more of what you’ve already saved.

9. Build a real cash cushion outside your investments

Retirement will still have flat tires, leaky roofs, and surprise medical bills. If every unexpected expense has to come out of investments at the worst possible time, you’ll constantly be selling low.

Aim to build a dedicated cash buffer, usually three to six months of essential expenses in a savings or money market account, separate from your daily checking and separate from long-term investments. Some older adults find tools like budget calendars or digital budgeting checkups helpful for seeing how much cash they truly need on hand.

Five years out is a good time to redirect part of each raise or bonus into this cushion. You can also park part of any big windfalls, tax refunds, inheritances, severance, here.

The point is not to hoard money in savings forever. It’s to give yourself a shock absorber so you’re not forced to raid retirement accounts every time life throws a curveball.

10. Track down old accounts and fix your beneficiaries

If you’ve changed jobs a few times, there’s a good chance you have old 401(k)s or pensions floating around. Losing track of these is more common than you’d think; government and nonprofit tools exist just to help people find missing retirement money.

Make a simple inventory of every retirement account you’ve ever had: employer name, plan type, current balance if you know it, and contact info. Decide whether to leave each one where it is, roll it into your current employer plan, or consolidate into an IRA. Fewer accounts usually means less chaos and fewer forgotten RMDs later.

While you’re at it, review your beneficiaries on every retirement account and life insurance policy. Those forms usually override your will, so you want them up to date with your current reality, not an ex from 20 years ago. Most plans let you update this online in a few minutes.

This is boring, unglamorous work. It’s also the difference between your money going where you intend and going somewhere else.

11. Get your legal and medical decision-making documents done

Five years before retirement is prime time to get your paperwork house in order. That usually means a will, powers of attorney for finances and health care, and some kind of medical directive or living will.

The National Institute on Aging has a straightforward checklist of documents to consider when “getting your affairs in order”. An estate planning attorney or legal clinic can help you translate those ideas into documents that fit your state’s laws.

This isn’t just about what happens after you die. Powers of attorney and health-care directives also protect you if you’re alive but can’t manage things for a while because of illness or injury. Without them, your family may have to go to court just to pay your bills or make medical choices.

You don’t need a mansion for this to matter. Even if all you have is a modest house, a car, and your retirement accounts, putting things in writing is one of the most generous gifts you can give your future self and your family.

12. Test-drive your retirement life before you quit

If you can, use these five years to practice retirement instead of jumping into it blind. That has two parts: testing the money and testing the lifestyle.

On the money side, try living for a few months on what your retirement income will be, while you’re still working. Take the difference between your current pay and that “practice retirement income” and send it to savings or debt. You’ll see quickly whether your budget assumptions are realistic, and you’ll build up extra cash at the same time.

On the lifestyle side, think about what your days will actually look like when work is no longer filling 40 or more hours a week. Start exploring hobbies, volunteering, part-time work, or small side gigs now. Trusted resources on retirement planning all stress that non-financial planning, how you’ll spend time and stay connected, matters just as much as the dollars.

The more you can “preview” retirement while you still have a paycheck, the fewer shocks you’ll have when you finally step out of full-time work.get them done, then keep going. Five years is enough time to make your future retired self a lot more comfortable than you might think.

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Learn how to stretch your retirement savings and maximize your Social Security benefits for a comfortable retirement:

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Byline: Katy Willis

You’re digging through a bin of loose toys at the thrift store. Most of it is broken plastic, Happy Meal prizes, and random superheroes with no capes. Then you spot a beat-up Darth Vader, or a tiny G.I. Joe with worn paint, and your brain goes straight to, “Is this worth anything… or is it just old?”

The difference between a $2 toy and a $200 action figure is not obvious when everything is dusty and jumbled together. Labels are gone. Packaging is long trashed. Half the time, you don’t even know the character’s name. But there is real money in vintage figures if you know what you’re looking at. Some rare Star Wars figures and variants have sold for five-figure prices when they show up mint and still sealed.

Even if you’re not chasing five-figure unicorns, it’s still helpful to know the basics. You want to grab the figures that hold value, leave the common junk behind, and avoid overpaying just because something “looks old.” The goal is to treat your thrift trips like a low-risk little business: spend a few dollars, bring home things that actually appreciate or at least hold their value, and have fun doing it.

This guide will walk you through how to think about value, what lines and details to watch for, and how to do quick checks in the store without turning every trip into homework.

Understand what “vintage” and “valuable” really mean

“Vintage” gets thrown on everything these days. For action figures, most collectors use “vintage” to mean toys that are a few decades old, often 20–30 years or more, and from classic lines like the original Star Wars, early G.I. Joe, Masters of the Universe, Transformers, and similar runs from the 70s, 80s, and 90s.

“Valuable” is the other half of the story. It comes down to the same four pillars that shape value in most collectibles: rarity, condition, demand, and completeness.

Rarity is about how many were made and how many survived. Some figures had short production runs. Others were mail-away exclusives. Some came with fragile accessories that got tossed. When only a small number are left, collectors pay for the chance to own one. Demand is about how much people care. A main character from a huge franchise almost always beats a random background guy, even if they were made in similar numbers.

Condition and completeness are huge. A figure that is mint, still sealed on its original card, can be worth many times more than the exact same figure loose in a bin. Loose figures can still be worth good money, especially if they’re rare or complete, but packaging and tiny accessories make a big difference.

When you’re thrifting, you usually won’t find sealed grails every week. But if you keep those pillars in mind, you can tell the difference between “nostalgic but common” and “this might actually pay for my whole cart.”

Get to know the big lines that still bring money

You don’t need to memorize every figure ever made. But knowing the major vintage lines that collectors still chase helps you scan a shelf faster.

The heavy hitters are the usual suspects: original Star Wars figures from the late 70s and 80s, early G.I. Joe (both the 12-inch and the 3.75-inch “Real American Hero” line), Masters of the Universe, early Transformers, and classic Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles. Many figures from these lines, especially main characters and rare variants, keep steady value decades later.

Within each line, some figures are very common and some are pricey. A loose, worn stormtrooper might sell for a modest amount, but a rare variant or late-run character can go into the hundreds, even loose. Certain carded Star Wars figures and special variants have hit tens of thousands at auction when sealed and graded.

Think of it like learning old coins. You don’t start by memorizing every date and mint. You start by learning which runs matter. When you’re out thrifting, if something looks like an original Kenner Star Wars figure, a classic 80s He-Man, or an early Turtles figure, it’s worth an extra look. If it looks like a modern big-headed toy from the dollar aisle, you can usually move on.

As you find more figures, Google them when you get home or check simple price guides so you start to recognize big lines and standout pieces.

Why condition and packaging matter so much

Collectors care about condition more than almost anything else. The same figure can be worth a few dollars loose and hundreds sealed. This isn’t about snobbery; it’s about how many nice examples are left.

Toy grading scales usually run from “poor” up to “mint,” sometimes using C-grades like C5 through C10. A mint figure is basically like new. Poor condition means heavy play wear, damage, or missing pieces. You don’t need to speak perfect grading language, but you should know that small scratches and bit of wear are expected on old toys, while big chunks missing, chewed hands, or sun-faded plastic kill value fast.

Packaging is a multiplier. Sealed “mint-on-card” figures usually sell for much more than opened ones because they prove the figure is untouched and complete. Even slightly worn cards with clear bubbles can be very desirable. The same is true for boxed vehicles and playsets; boxes, inserts, and paperwork all add up.

In real thrift life, you’ll mostly see loose figures thrown in bins or bagged together. That’s okay. Loose can still be valuable if the figure is rare, in good shape, and has hard-to-find accessories like original weapons or small parts. But if you do see carded figures or boxed sets in the wild, slow down and really look them over. Those are the ones that can move the needle for your wallet.

Learn to read markings, dates, and country of origin

Most vintage action figures have tiny copyright stamps and markings somewhere on the body. This is one of your best tools for telling old from new and real from knockoff.

Flip the figure over and look at the backs of legs, feet, or lower backs. You’re usually looking for three things: the company name, the year, and the country of origin. Many older figures were made in places like the USA, Japan, Hong Kong, Mexico, or early Chinese factories. These little marks are a key part of authenticity checks.

If the stamp says something like “© 1982” and lists a known company for that line, that’s a good sign. If there’s no stamp at all, or the markings look soft, smeared, or in the wrong place, be cautious. Reproduction figures and custom casts sometimes skip accurate stamps or use odd fonts and spacing.

Markings alone don’t set value, but they help you make sure you’re holding what you think you’re holding. Once you can quickly find the year and company with your thumb, it gets much easier to do a fast check later at home.

Spotting reissues, bootlegs, and “too perfect” fakes

Popular lines get reissued over and over. Companies remake classic figures with modern molds, updated paint, or new packaging. On top of that, there are straight bootlegs and high-quality reproductions. Some collectors love bootlegs. Some hate them. The big thing for your wallet is making sure you’re not paying vintage prices for a modern toy.

Reissues often copy the original look but include extra logos, safety marks, or modern copyright dates on the back or packaging. Some modern Ninja Turtles reissues, for example, have additional logos printed on the card that never appeared in the 80s runs.

Bootlegs and repros can give themselves away through sloppy details. The plastic might feel lighter or waxier. Paint lines are soft or messy instead of sharp. Joints are loose right out of the package. Stamps might be missing completely or look weird compared with pictures of known originals.

One simple rule: if a figure looks “too new” for its age, slow down. Vintage plastic usually shows at least a bit of age, slight yellowing on white parts, tiny rubs on high points, or faint scratching on glossy paint. That doesn’t mean a perfect-looking figure is fake, but it should push you to double-check markings and maybe look up photos of real examples before you pay up.

At thrift prices, grabbing a cool bootleg you like for a few bucks is fine. Just don’t let a seller convince you a modern repro is a rare original worth hundreds.

Where valuable figures actually show up secondhand

You’ll find action figures almost everywhere: thrift stores, flea markets, yard sales, local classifieds, and online marketplaces. The valuable vintage ones tend to hide in the same places as the junk.

Big chain thrift stores often bag toys together and hang them on a wall. These grab bags can be gold. You might have to buy a handful of junk to get the one good figure in the mix, but if that one figure pays for the bag, you’re still ahead. Smaller charity shops sometimes toss all toys into one big bin or low shelf. Either way, it’s worth a quick dig.

Estate sales and garage sales are good for bigger lots. Someone clearing out a childhood bedroom or an attic might sell an entire tub of 1980s toys for one flat price. That’s where you can find a full run of figures, vehicles, and accessories that would have cost you a lot more piece by piece. Local auctions sometimes group toys into lots and use general grading terms like “good” or “fair” based on condition.

Online, you’ll see more obvious pricing and fewer true steals, but you still might find underpriced lots if you’re patient. For a thrifting-style, low-stress approach, focus on local finds you can inspect in person first. It’s much easier to learn when you can actually hold the figure in your hand.

Quick in-store checks: articulation, accessories, and damage

Once you pick up a figure that might be something, do a fast health check. You’re not grading it like an auction house; you’re just deciding, “Is this worth my $3?”

Start with articulation. Gently flex the limbs and head. Vintage figures will often have stiffer joints than modern super-articulated toys, but they shouldn’t feel like they’re about to snap. If a figure’s limbs are hanging like noodles or completely frozen, that hurts both play value and resale.

Look for accessories. Original weapons, helmets, backpacks, capes, and tiny pieces can be worth almost as much as, or sometimes more than, the figure. Many collectors will pay extra for a complete figure because finding that exact little blaster on its own is hard. If you find a loose weapon in the bottom of a bin, grab it. It might match something you or someone else already owns.

Then look for damage. Check faces and paint first; collectors care a lot about eyes and main details. Avoid figures with big chunks missing, chew marks, serious discoloration, or heat damage. A little wear is okay and normal for vintage. Heavy yellowing, sticky plastic, or that chalky, brittle feeling means the toy has lived a rough life.

If you’re unsure, think about your own standards. Would you be happy seeing this on your shelf every day? Could you, in good conscience, ask someone for money for it online? If the answer is no, leave it for the next person.

Using simple online checks without turning it into a job

You do not need to stand in the toy aisle running full market analysis on every figure. But for anything that seems promising, a quick phone search can keep you from leaving money on the table or overpaying.

Type the character name plus the line and “figure” into your search bar if you know it, or use visual search tools if you don’t. Once you’ve confirmed what you’re holding, look at recent sold listings on major marketplaces, not just asking prices. People can ask whatever they want; sold prices show what buyers actually pay.

There are also dedicated action figure price and visual guide sites that track lines like Star Wars, Transformers, G.I. Joe, and more. You don’t need to memorize them, but once in a while, it’s worth checking a few figures at home afterward, just to train your eye on what’s common and what’s special.

Keep your research light. Pick one or two figures per trip to look up. Over time, patterns will jump out. You’ll learn which lines are usually worth grabbing on sight and which ones are nostalgia-only with tiny resale.

Deciding what to keep, what to flip, and what to leave

Thrifting action figures can go two ways: you’re buying for your own collection, you’re buying to resell, or a mix of both. Either way, you need a simple money filter in your head.

If you’re buying for yourself, ask whether the figure fills a real gap in your collection or just scratches a momentary nostalgia itch. A $4 figure you love and will display for years is a good buy. A $4 figure that will live in a box in the closet because “it might be worth something someday” is just clutter.

If you’re buying to flip, work backward from likely sale price. If loose, common figures from that line usually sell for $8–$12 plus shipping, paying $5 each at the thrift store leaves you very little margin once you factor in fees and your time. If you can get a figure for $1–$3 that sells consistently around $15–$25, that’s better.

Use those value pillars again: rarity, demand, condition, completeness. A rare character in great condition with original accessories is usually worth grabbing even if the thrift price is a bit higher. A common, beat-up figure missing half its limbs is almost never worth it unless you need parts for customs.

Most important, set a budget per trip. Decide ahead of time how much you’re willing to spend on toys, and stick to it. That keeps this hobby in “fun side hustle” territory instead of “where did my grocery money go.”

Basic storage and care so your finds keep their value

Once you start bringing figures home, how you store them matters. You don’t want to rescue a vintage toy from a dusty bin just to ruin it in your own closet.

Keep figures out of direct sunlight. UV light can fade paint and yellow plastic over time. That’s why some old card bubbles look tea-colored instead of clear. Store loose figures in clean bins or drawers, ideally in individual bags if they have small accessories. If you display them on a shelf, dust regularly and keep them away from windows.

Avoid extreme heat and humidity. Hot attics and damp basements can warp plastic and rust metal parts. Some collectors invest in climate-controlled spaces for very high-end collections, but for normal budgets, just aim for a stable, room-temperature area in your home.

If you clean figures, use a soft cloth or cotton swab with a little mild soap and water, then dry gently. Don’t soak electronics or figures with stickers; water can lift labels and damage internal parts. The goal is to remove surface grime without stripping paint.

Good storage protects your money. A well-kept loose figure might not be worth as much as a sealed one, but it will hold its value better than something tossed into a dusty, sun-baked box.

When grading and high-end selling actually make sense

You might have seen the clear acrylic cases with graded figures inside and wondered if that’s something you should do. Third-party grading services examine figures, assign a condition grade, and seal them in tamper-evident cases with labels. These graded pieces often sell faster and for higher prices because buyers trust the grade and authenticity.

Grading is not cheap. There are fees for each item, plus shipping and insurance. It makes sense when you have a figure that is already worth serious money in good condition, often rare, main characters from big lines, especially if they’re still sealed or nearly mint. In those cases, grading can unlock a much bigger pool of serious buyers who are willing to pay a premium.

For most thrifted loose figures in average shape, grading is overkill. The grading fee might cost more than the toy is worth. You’re usually better off cleaning them, photographing them clearly, and selling them as-is with honest descriptions.

Treat grading like you would treat getting jewelry appraised or coins certified. Save it for the standout pieces that are truly rare or in exceptional condition, not every random toy you pull from a bin.

Know when to walk away

The hardest skill in any collecting hobby is walking away. When you’re in the moment, it’s easy to talk yourself into “maybe this will be valuable someday” or “it’s only $3.” But enough “only $3” buys can eat up real money.

Red flags are simple. If the figure is heavily damaged, badly yellowed, sticky, or missing major pieces, and it’s not a known rare character, leave it. If you look up a figure and see that it sells for $5 shipped all day long, don’t pay $4.99 plus tax for it at the thrift store unless you truly just want it for yourself.

Also listen to your own bandwidth. If you already have boxes of “to list someday” toys at home, be honest about whether you’re actually going to photograph and sell a new pile. Sometimes the best money move is to focus on selling what you have before bringing in more.

Thrifting vintage action figures can be a fun way to mix nostalgia with smart money choices. You’re not going to retire off a bin find, but you can absolutely build a cool collection, make back your costs, and even profit a bit if you stay picky. The more you train your eye on what’s truly valuable, the less you waste on plastic that’s only worth what the thrift store charged.

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Cleaning out a closet or attic, you might toss old ticket stubs, seat cushions, or random glassware without a second thought. If any of it is from a Super Bowl, pause before you pitch it. Some of those “junk drawer” pieces are now serious collectibles.

A handful of items tied to early games and big-name players have sold for thousands, even six figures. But plenty of smaller pieces, like vintage pennants, drink glasses, and stadium swag, can still bring in $40, $100, or a few hundred dollars if you find the right buyer.

Whether you inherited a box from a die-hard fan or love browsing estate sales and thrift stores, here are just some of the Super Bowl items that could be worth real money.

High-grade program from Super Bowl III

Programs from the game where New York Jets quarterback Joe Namath “guaranteed” a win over the heavily favored Baltimore Colts are especially hot. Super Bowl III changed how people saw the AFL and NFL, and fans saved many programs, but most are creased, stained, or written in.

Condition is everything here. In December 2024, a professionally graded CGC 8.5 program from Super Bowl III sold for $576. Lesser copies with light wear might land in the $100–$250 range, while beat-up ones may only be worth $40–$75.

If you have an old Super Bowl program, check the spine for splits, look for writing on the cover, and flip through to make sure no pages are missing. Slip it into a protective sleeve or top-loader, and compare recent sales before you decide whether it’s worth grading.

1968 Super Bowl II press guide

Press guides were never meant for fans. They were printed for media members and team staff, so far fewer exist today. The guide from Super Bowl II, again featuring the Packers, is a good example of how niche paper items can have real value.

One Super Bowl II press guide sold for about $198 in 2022, and another brought $507.88 back in 2013, depending on condition. That’s the kind of range you’ll often see: well-preserved, clean copies go higher, with heavy wear or writing pulling prices down.

You’re most likely to find a press guide in a box of “office stuff” from someone who worked in sports or media, or at an estate sale where the owner had season tickets. Look for intact covers, no missing pages, and no major water damage. Even if yours isn’t near the top of the price range, a couple hundred dollars for something that looks like a boring booklet isn’t bad.

1970 Minnesota Vikings Super Bowl IV souvenir pennant

Felt pennants were a cheap souvenir at the time, so parents and kids bought them, pinned them to the wall, and forgot about them. Today, early Super Bowl pennants in good condition are popular with collectors who like bold colors and retro designs.

A 1970 Vikings “World Champions” pennant celebrating Super Bowl IV sold for $125 at auction, even with some wear. That’s solid money for something that may have been tacked up in a childhood bedroom.

Look for older, full-size felt pennants, ideally with bright graphics and no big chunks missing from the tip. Light pinholes and small creases are normal; heavy fading, mildew, or kids’ marker doodles will hurt value. Flatten them gently in a clean, dry place and store in a plastic sleeve or between acid-free boards until you’re ready to sell.

1972–73 Miami “World Champions” pennant from the perfect season

The 1972 Miami Dolphins went undefeated and won Super Bowl VII, still the only perfect season in NFL history. Anything tied to that run tends to sell well, including simple wall pennants celebrating the “World Champions.”

Vintage Dolphins championship pennants from that era can be seen on resale sites with asking prices around $100 and up (for example, a 1972–73 “World Champions” pennant listed near $108). Actual selling prices vary, but it’s fair to say a clean, bright example could bring $60–$120.

Check both sides of a pennant for fading and stains, and be careful with the felt edges, they tear easily if you tug. If yours looks promising, compare it closely to online photos so you know which exact variant you have, then search sold listings for that style to get a realistic price.

Apple-branded seat cushion from Super Bowl XIX

Sometimes the sponsor logo matters as much as the game. For Super Bowl XIX, held at Stanford Stadium in 1985, Apple handed out branded seat cushions. That game featured the San Francisco 49ers and the Dolphins, but to Apple collectors, the cushion is also early tech history.

One Apple Computer Super Bowl XIX seat cushion sold at auction in 2026 for $330. Condition, of course, matters: the cleaner and brighter the Apple logo and Super Bowl graphics, the better.

You’re most likely to find something like this in the home of someone who worked in tech in the 1980s, especially in California, or in a box of old stadium freebies. Check for dry foam, rips, and fading. Even more generic Super Bowl seat cushions from the 1980s and ’90s can bring $20–$50 as fun display pieces, so don’t assume that worn cushion in the garage is worthless.

Pairs of late-’80s Super Bowl stadium seat cushions

Not every stadium freebie is tied to a famous brand, but collectors still like them for the design and nostalgia. A pair of original seat cushions from Super Bowl XXII in San Diego, for example, shows up online as a set with a price around $20. That’s not retirement money, but it’s more than most people expect for old foam.

Many families shoved these into closets after the game and never used them again. If you find a matching pair from the same Super Bowl, especially with clean logos and straps intact, you’re in the right ballpark for a $20–$40 sale. Unmatched, heavily stained cushions may only fetch a few dollars, but they still appeal to hardcore team fans.

Avoid trying to “deep clean” the fabric, because aggressive scrubbing or harsh chemicals can wreck the graphics. A light surface wipe, gentle drying, and good photos are usually enough if you decide to list them.

1994 Super Bowl XXVIII souvenir glass mug

Stadium glassware and barware are easy to overlook. They’re heavy, take up space, and often end up at thrift stores. But Super Bowl-branded mugs and glasses from the 1980s and ’90s can sell in the $15–$35 range apiece, especially if they feature bright logos and no chips.

One example: a glass mug from Super Bowl XXVIII has an asking price of about $30 on a vintage marketplace. Sets of different Super Bowl mugs, or full runs for one team, can be even more attractive to collectors and bar owners.

Look for heavy, good-quality glass with crisp printing and an official NFL or Super Bowl logo. Small scratches from washing are fine; chips around the rim or a worn logo will drag down the value. If you have a whole cabinet full of these from years of watching the big game, grouping them into lots by decade or team can make them easier to sell.

“Monsters of the Midway” 1985 Chicago Bears rocks glasses

The 1985 Chicago Bears are one of those iconic teams fans never stop talking about. Souvenir rocks glasses and bar sets with that season’s graphics, including references to their Super Bowl XX win, still get attention on resale sites.

A vintage set of Bears “Monsters of the Midway” team rocks glasses from the mid-1980s recently showed up as sold out at around $30–$40 for the set, and similar NFL rocks glasses often sell in that same range depending on team and condition. Individually, a single glass might bring $10–$15; complete sets with all original pieces do best.

Check for cloudiness from dishwashers, worn graphics, and chips on the rim. Glassware is fragile and heavy to ship, so if you’re selling online, factor in packing costs. For local resale, sports bars and man-cave decorators are obvious buyers. A little cluster of glasses from a famous season can easily turn into $30–$60 cash.

Lots of multiple vintage Super Bowl pennants

Sometimes value comes from the pile, not the single piece. Auction houses occasionally sell mixed lots of vintage sports pennants, including multiple Super Bowls in one group. One lot of six vintage sports pennants, featuring Super Bowl XI and other designs, sold for $75 a few years ago.

If you open a storage bin and find a dozen different team and Super Bowl pennants, don’t assume you have to list each one separately. Sets like this appeal to decorators, shop owners, and collectors who like “instant wall coverage.” A mix of 1970s and 1980s Super Bowl pennants in decent shape can often bring $50–$100 as a lot.

Lay them flat, photograph the best graphics, and be honest about creases or small tears. Keeping them together is less work for you and still turns forgotten felt into real money.n a presentation box, keep it safe and do some careful research before you dismiss it.

Tom Brady–signed Super Bowl XXXIX souvenir football

You don’t need game use to have a valuable Brady piece. A Wilson souvenir football from Super Bowl XXXIX, commemorating the championship where the New England Patriots beat the Eagles, sold for $2,069 in 2025. It was a clean signature, on an official Super Bowl-branded ball, with third-party authentication.

Brady-signed Super Bowl items often land in the $1,000–$3,000 range when they’re limited, well documented, and in great condition. More common signed footballs from regular-season events, camp signings, or mass autograph sessions might go for a few hundred instead.

If you have a Brady autograph, note what’s special about the item itself. Is it a generic NFL ball, or does it clearly reference a specific Super Bowl? Check for certifications from major authenticators, and compare your exact ball to recent sales to see where it might land.

Championship ring from the 1972 Miami Dolphins perfect season

Original Super Bowl rings are at the top of the food chain for many collectors, and the 1972 Dolphins are among the most desirable. Their perfect season and Super Bowl VII win make any ring from that team’s inner circle a big deal.

In 2024, a Super Bowl VII championship ring presented to a minority team owner sold for $75,000. Rings from star players can go even higher. Family-issued and front-office rings usually bring less than star-player rings but are still five-figure items.

Genuine Super Bowl rings are heavy, high-karat gold, and often made by firms like Jostens. They usually come with strong provenance, paperwork, letters from the original owner, or a chain of custody through major auction houses. If you ever stumble onto a ring in an estate situation, do not try to resize, polish, or wear it. Put it in a safe place and get expert advice.

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Byline: Katy Willis

You might think your old football cards are just cardboard clutter. A second-year Tom Brady, a weird hologram from the ’90s, or a shiny insert with a Super Bowl logo doesn’t look like serious money.

But Super Bowl–related cards are a whole niche. Anything tied to a big game, MVP moment, or championship win can turn into real cash, from six-figure rookies down to $50 gems hiding in a dollar box. Condition and grading matter a lot, but even raw copies can surprise you.

If your family saved cards from the Terry Bradshaw era, or you ripped packs during Tom Brady’s Patriots years, it’s worth taking another look. Here are 18 very specific Super Bowl cards that have actually sold for strong money, and what to look for in your own shoebox or at the thrift store.

2017 Contenders Patrick Mahomes Super Bowl Ticket auto

This is the dream pull: the 2017 Panini Contenders Patrick Mahomes II Super Bowl Ticket Autograph Rookie #303, numbered 1-of-1. It uses the standard Rookie Ticket design but with a “Super Bowl Ticket” foil stamp and on-card signature. Because it’s a one-of-one, there’s literally only a single copy, and Mahomes is already a multi–Super Bowl MVP.

A BGS 9 copy of this card sold for $324,000 in November 2023, making it one of the most expensive modern football cards tied directly to the Super Bowl. Lower-tier Mahomes Contenders parallels and inserts regularly land in the five-figure range when graded in top condition.

You won’t likely find this card at a garage sale. But if you see any Mahomes Contenders rookie with an on-card autograph and a “Ticket” design, treat it gently. Check the back for the Super Bowl Ticket logo or serial numbering, and slide it into a sleeve and top loader before you even think about what it might be worth.

2004 Topps Super Bowl XXXVIII MVP Tom Brady patch autos

For Brady collectors, the 2004 Topps Super Bowl XXXVIII MVP patch autograph is a grail card. It features a game-used jersey swatch from his win over the Carolina Panthers and an on-card signature, usually numbered out of 99. The design screams early-2000s Topps, and the Super Bowl MVP callout ties it directly to one of his classic performances.

One BGS 8.5 copy sold for $32,400 in a recent high-end football auction. Another PSA 8 copy sold for $30,000 with buyer’s premium. Even mid-grade examples can land in the tens of thousands because of the combo of patch, auto, and specific Super Bowl branding.

In the wild, this could be sitting in a one-touch case in a local shop or stashed in an old safety deposit box. Look for “Super Bowl XXXVIII MVP” and a serial number out of 99 on the front or back. If you find one, don’t try to press out any edge dings or clean the surface, damage can easily knock off thousands.

2002 Topps Super Bowl XXXVI MVP Tom Brady patch auto

Two years earlier, Topps marked Brady’s first championship with the 2002 Topps Super Bowl XXXVI MVP patch autograph #SBMVP. The card includes a piece of a game-used football or jersey and a signature, tying directly to the upset win over the Rams. It’s a tough, numbered card that Patriots fans chase hard.

A PSA 8 copy of this patch auto sold for $7,950 in a recent auction. Other graded examples have moved in the mid- to high-four-figure range depending on condition and eye appeal. For a card released just after his first ring, that’s serious appreciation.

The design mentions “Super Bowl XXXVI MVP” and shows Brady in his early Patriots uniform. Watch for chipping on the colored borders and fading on the foil. If you come across one raw in a collection, it’s worth sending to a top grading company before you sell, because a bump from an 8 to a 9 can add a big premium.

1990 Pro Set Vince Lombardi Trophy hologram short print

The 1990 Pro Set Vince Lombardi Trophy hologram is one of those oddball inserts that turned into a monster. It’s a small hologram card of the Super Bowl trophy with the Pro Set logo, randomly inserted and notoriously tough to pull. Many kids pinned it to bulletin boards or stuck it in screwdowns that scratched the surface.

Recent price data shows PSA 10 copies reaching into the low- to mid-four-figure range, with one gem-mint example tracked over $7,000 and PSA 9s commonly landing in the $700–$1,500 zone. Even ungraded copies can sell for well over $100 if the hologram is clean and the corners are sharp.

These sometimes show up mixed in with junk-wax commons. Hold the card under a light and check that the hologram isn’t cloudy or deeply scratched. If the edges look crisp and there’s no major peeling, it’s worth putting in a fresh sleeve and hard case and looking up recent graded sale prices before selling.

1971 Topps Terry Bradshaw rookie, a four-time Super Bowl champ

Bradshaw’s 1971 Topps rookie #156 isn’t a Super Bowl highlight card, but it’s the flagship rookie of a quarterback who led the Steelers to four Lombardi trophies. It has a bright yellow background, simple portrait, and “Steelers” in a curved banner, very early-’70s.

High-grade copies have become major keys. PSA auction records show PSA 9 examples selling for more than $30,000 in recent years, with one sale hitting $33,600. Even PSA 7 and 8 grades can land in the high hundreds to a few thousand dollars.

If you find an old Bradshaw card in a shoebox, flip it over and check the year and number. Centering is a big deal here: lots of copies are off-left or off-right. Light corner rounding is normal for a card this old, but sharp corners, strong color, and no creases are what push it into serious money territory.

1970 Topps Super Joe Namath oversized card

The 1970 Topps Super Joe Namath #33 is an oversized card that feels more like a small photo. It shows Namath in his classic Jets look just a couple of years after his Super Bowl III guarantee and upset win. Because of the bigger size, a lot of these were pinned, taped, or tossed.

Recent sales show mid-grade raw copies often bringing $25–$80, with nicer examples hitting higher prices. One near-mint copy sold just under $80, while several others in similar shape have landed between $20 and $60. A clean PSA-graded copy can easily move into the low-hundreds.

These sometimes show up in old albums or frames. Check for trimming along the edges and stains from tape or tack holes. Even with some wear, it’s worth more than a typical base card, and because it’s big, you’ll want a larger semi-rigid holder to keep the corners from getting smashed.

1972 Topps Super Bowl VI card

Topps celebrated the Cowboys’ win over the Dolphins with the 1972 Topps Super Bowl VI card #139. It features Roger Staubach and the Super Bowl game summary, and it’s technically an insert within the regular set. Kids often stacked these with commons or tacked them on walls.

PSA price data shows a PSA 10 gem-mint copy selling for $672, while PSA 9s have brought more than $300. Even PSA 7 copies have sold in the $25–$50 range, with numerous eBay sales recorded in that neighborhood.

Raw examples are common, but quality varies. Look closely at the white borders for chipping and check the centering, many are noticeably off. If you find one that looks sharp and well-centered, it might be worth grading, especially if you already plan to send in a batch of cards.

1973 Topps Super Bowl VII card from the perfect Dolphins season

The 1973 Topps Super Bowl VII #139 card celebrates the Dolphins’ win that capped their perfect 17–0 season. For fans of vintage football and that iconic team, it’s a key piece of cardboard history. The front shows the game action and the back has a short recap.

PSA’s auction records show PSA 9 copies selling around the high two-figure to low three-figure range, with one sale recorded at $187.50. Lower grades still sell regularly because team and Super Bowl collectors build full runs of these cards.

Look for sharp corners and solid color on the back, which tends to show wear. Because it’s not a rookie, some sellers throw it into bulk lots. If you’re going through old binders from the ’70s, pull any card that actually says “Super Bowl” on the front and check the number, those inserts can quietly add up.

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2002 Fleer Ultra Tom Brady Super Bowl MVP second-year card

The 2002 Fleer Ultra Tom Brady #181 isn’t an autograph or relic, but it is a second-year card that calls out his Super Bowl MVP status. That combination of early-career Brady and championship mention has made it more desirable than a typical base card.

Sales data shows PSA 10 copies selling in the low- to mid-hundreds, with one gem-mint example going for more than $300 and another for $355. PSA 9 and SGC 9.5 copies often land between $25 and $90, depending on timing and the overall market.

In a shoebox, this looks like a normal glossy early-2000s insert. Check the back for the #181 and make sure you aren’t confusing it with lower-end base issues. If the surface is clean and the corners are sharp, a light-value card like this can still be worth grading if you’re sending in several Bradys anyway.

2002 Topps Super Bowl Goal Post Relic Tom Brady with game-used posts

One of the more creative Super Bowl cards is the 2002 Topps Super Bowl Goal Post Relic Tom Brady #SBG1. It includes a small piece of the goal post from Super Bowl XXXVI embedded in the card, tied to Brady’s first championship. Over time, collectors have realized how quirky and limited these relics are.

Ungraded copies have sold in the few-hundred-dollar range, and high-grade examples can easily push into the high hundreds. A PSA 8 copy was featured in a premium auction line-up, while graded and authenticated versions around BGS 9 or HGA 9 sit near the $600–$1,000 mark based on recent sales and market data.

These sometimes show up in small display cases or tucked in with other relics. Look for the “Super Bowl Goal Post Relic” text and “SBG1” on the back. Because the card stock is thick, edges can chip easily. Don’t jam it into a tight sleeve; use a slightly larger penny sleeve and a thick top loader instead.

2002 Topps Chrome Super Bowl Goal Posts Adam Vinatieri relics

Kickers don’t always get hobby love, but Adam Vinatieri’s 2002 Topps Chrome Super Bowl Goal Posts #SBG6 relic is an exception. It includes a piece of the goal post from his game-winning kick in Super Bowl XXXVI, and the Chrome refractor versions have a lot of shine.

Recent sales show raw refractor copies selling from about $75 up to $250, with one documented sale at $169.45 and another at $250. That’s a strong price for a non-quarterback relic, driven by the famous moment and limited supply.

If you find one, it will usually say “Super Bowl Goal Posts” and show a small yellow relic window. Tilt it under light to confirm it’s a refractor (you’ll see rainbow shine). Because Chrome cards are prone to surface scratches, it’s worth looking closely before grading, even small marks can drag a grade down.

2022 Donruss Super Bowl Downtown Tom Brady case-hit inserts

Modern “Downtown” inserts are some of the hottest case hits in football, and the 2022 Donruss Super Bowl Downtown Tom Brady #SBD-TB is a standout. It mixes cartoon-style artwork with Super Bowl imagery from his Buccaneers win, and collectors love how loud and detailed it looks.

Recent sales show raw copies selling around $1,400, while PSA 10 examples have reached the mid-$3,000 range. Even lower grades and ungraded copies usually sit solidly in the high hundreds.

These don’t look like old-school cards at all, more like a mini poster. Look for the Super Bowl logo and “Downtown” styling on the front. If you pull or find one, avoid stacking it with other shiny cards to prevent surface scratches, and get it into a semi-rigid holder right away.

2022 Donruss Optic Super Bowl Downtown Tom Brady and Black Pandora parallel

Donruss Optic took the same concept and gave it the chrome treatment. The 2022 Optic Super Bowl Downtown Tom Brady #SBD-TB combines the Downtown art with Optic’s glossy finish, plus a rainbow of parallels. For serious collectors, the limited Black Pandora /25 versions are especially desirable.

Price guides and recorded sales show raw Super Bowl Downtown copies selling for several thousand dollars at the high end, with one raw sale tracked at $5,000 . A PSA 9 standard copy has sold just under the $900 mark.

If you’re digging through a modern box, check serial numbers and the pattern behind Brady. The Black Pandora parallel has a distinctive black-and-silver square pattern and is numbered out of 25. Any version should go straight into a magnetic one-touch or graded slab, not a loose deck box.

2023 Optic Super Bowl Downtown Patrick Mahomes inserts

Patrick Mahomes has his own Optic Super Bowl Downtown card in 2023, showing him surrounded by Chiefs and Super Bowl imagery. It’s a short-print insert that only pops out of certain hobby products, which keeps supply tight while demand for Mahomes stays high.

Recent sales show raw copies landing around $1,000–$1,300, with PSA 10 graded examples selling between roughly $1,700 and $2,100. Considering it’s not numbered, that’s a strong price driven mainly by scarcity and player popularity.

Card shows like to keep these in showcase cases near the register. In a collection, look for “Super Bowl Downtown” and Mahomes in a stylized cartoon city scene. As with all Optic shine, keep fingerprints off the surface and don’t try to “clean” it with anything abrasive, a soft, dry microfiber cloth is as far as you should go.

2021 Mosaic Super Bowl MVPs Tom Brady Gold Mosaic /10

Panini Mosaic’s Super Bowl MVPs inserts highlight Brady’s multiple championship runs, and the Gold Mosaic /10 parallel is one of the most chased. Card #281 shows him in a Buccaneers uniform with a Super Bowl MVP background, and the gold parallel has a bright, reflective finish.

Sales records show Gold and No Huddle Gold versions out of 10 selling from around $600 up over $1,200 in top grades, including a PSA 10 No Huddle Gold that sold for $1,237.12 and other gold parallels in the $325–$600+ range.

These are serial numbered on the back, so check for “/10” next to the card number. Centering is often an issue with Mosaic, and print lines are common. If you have a clean copy, paying for grading can be worth it because the price jump from raw to PSA 10 can be huge on such a low-print card.

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2021 Mosaic Super Bowl MVPs Tom Brady Green Swirl /11 FOTL

Another short-print from the same run is the 2021 Mosaic Green Swirl Tom Brady Super Bowl MVPs #285, a first-off-the-line (FOTL) parallel numbered to only 11. The design mixes green swirl patterns with the Super Bowl MVP layout, and it’s one of the tougher Brady parallels to track down.

Recent sales include PSA 10 examples selling between about $525 and $661, with ungraded Green Swirl copies changing hands around $800–$850. Those numbers put it comfortably in the mid- to high-hundreds even outside of perfect condition.

The serial number “/11” on the back is key. The swirl pattern is more intense than regular Mosaic, so compare it side-by-side with a base Super Bowl MVPs card if you’re unsure. Because FOTL cards can bow slightly, store it in a graded slab or top loader with a fitted team bag to keep dust and moisture out.

2022 Mosaic Super Bowl MVPs Tom Brady Genesis SSP

Genesis parallels in Mosaic are unnumbered but extremely short-printed, with a swirling, dark marble-style pattern. The 2022 Mosaic Super Bowl MVPs Tom Brady Genesis #291 focuses on his Buccaneers Super Bowl LV win, and it’s one of those cards that feels special the moment you see it.

Recent raw sales show this Genesis card selling between about $85 and $125, with higher prices for especially clean copies and graded examples selling for more. That’s a strong return for a parallel that doesn’t even have a serial number printed on it.

Genesis cards are instantly recognizable once you’ve seen one, the background looks like a storm cloud with teal and purple veins. If you pull one, keep it out of deck boxes and binder pages. Put it straight into a penny sleeve and semi-rigid holder and consider grading if the surface is clean and corners look sharp.

2005 Topps Heritage Flashback Relics Super Bowl XXXVI MVP Tom Brady

Topps revisited Brady’s first championship a few years later with the 2005 Topps Heritage Flashback Relics Super Bowl XXXVI MVP Tom Brady #FTB. This card features a piece of game-used pylon or goal post from that Super Bowl, styled in a retro Topps Heritage design that feels like an old card even though it’s modern.

Graded examples can be surprisingly valuable. A PSA 8 copy has been offered around the mid-hundreds, and auction records show this card estimated and sold in the $200–$400 range depending on grade and eye appeal . Autographed versions and special authenticated copies can go even higher.

This card usually shows Brady and the Louisiana Superdome, with a square relic window. Check that the relic isn’t loose under the surface or heavily discolored. Because this is a thicker card, store it in a magnetic one-touch or an appropriately sized graded sleeve to keep the corners from flaring over time.

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What can I sell to make money (or resell)? 38 ideas: Dive into this article to discover things in your house you can sell for quick cash — and where to sell.

What sells quickly at pawn shops: In this post, you’ll find ways to navigate pawnshops, understand how they work and what items are most in demand.