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If you count on Social Security to cover bills, even small rule changes can throw off your budget. For 2026, your check is getting a raise, but so are a lot of the limits and thresholds that sit in the fine print.

The 2026 cost-of-living adjustment (COLA) is 2.8%, which nudges the average retired worker’s benefit from about $2,015 to $2,071 a month. That is roughly 56 extra dollars before other deductions.

At the same time, Medicare Part B premiums, earnings limits, disability thresholds, and the maximum earnings subject to Social Security tax are all going up. None of this is meant to scare you. The goal is to help you understand what is changing in 2026 so you can adjust your plan instead of being surprised.

The 2.8% COLA raises all Social Security and SSI checks

For 2026, Social Security and SSI payments are getting a 2.8% COLA. That raise is based on inflation between the third quarter of 2024 and the third quarter of 2025.

On paper, that sounds modest compared with the big COLAs from the high-inflation years, but it is still real money. The average retired worker’s benefit rises from about $2,015 to $2,071 a month. An average aged couple with both spouses receiving benefits goes from about $3,120 to $3,208.

What you actually see in your bank account may be different. Your own raise depends on your earnings record and when you claimed. On top of that, your net deposit can change because Medicare Part B premiums and any tax withholding come out of your gross benefit before it hits your account. So yes, you get a raise, but it may feel smaller once everything else adjusts.

New average benefit amounts show where your check fits in

The COLA does not just bump one number. It raises every type of Social Security benefit, and the 2026 fact sheet lays out new averages that can help you sanity-check your own payment. Social Security Administration reports that in January 2026, the typical aged widow or widower living alone sees their benefit move from about $1,867 to $1,919. All disabled workers go from an average of $1,586 to $1,630 a month.

These are averages, not targets. If your check is lower, it does not mean anything is wrong. You may have fewer years of work, lower lifetime earnings, or you may have claimed early, which permanently reduces your benefit. If your benefit is higher, you probably had above-average earnings or delayed claiming. The useful part is this: if your benefit barely moved while the averages went up 2.8%, that is a sign you should log into your “my Social Security” account and confirm that your benefit and earnings history look right.

SSI payments rise, and 2026 has a lot of “early” checks

If you receive Supplemental Security Income (SSI) because of age or disability, 2026 brings a higher federal payment standard. The maximum federal SSI payment rises to $994 a month for an individual and $1,491 for an eligible couple, up from $967 and $1,450 in 2025.

The calendar also works in your favor, at least for timing. SSI is normally paid on the first of the month, but when that date falls on a weekend or federal holiday, the payment comes on the last business day before. In 2026, several months start on weekends, so SSI payments for February, March, August, and November show up at the end of the prior month instead. News outlets are already flagging February and March 2026 “early” deposits, but these are not extra payments. They simply shift the timing.

If you live on SSI, this matters. You will have some months with cash in hand a little sooner and “quiet” months with no SSI deposit at all. Building a very simple monthly budget, even on paper, can help you stretch those early checks so you are not short at the end of the month.

Earnings test limits go up, so some workers can keep more

If you work and collect retirement or survivor benefits before full retirement age, the earnings test still applies in 2026, but the limits are higher. For people under full retirement age all year, the earnings test limit rises from $23,400 to $24,480. Social Security will withhold one dollar in benefits for every two dollars you earn over that amount. In the year you reach full retirement age, the threshold climbs from $62,160 to $65,160, and the withholding rate drops to one dollar for every three dollars over the limit.

Once you hit your full retirement age, there is no earnings test and you can earn as much as you want from work without having benefits withheld. If benefits are withheld before then, they are not gone forever. Social Security recalculates your benefit at full retirement age and gives you credit for the months your check was reduced or stopped, which increases your monthly benefit going forward.

The bottom line for 2026: if you want to work while receiving benefits, you can earn a little more before the earnings test kicks in. But you still need to track your income so you are not surprised by a smaller check or an overpayment notice later.

The payroll tax cap jumps to $184,500 for 2026

For higher earners, a big change is the taxable maximum, also called the wage base limit. In 2026, Social Security payroll tax applies only to the first $184,500 of your wages or net self-employment income, up from $176,100 in 2025.

If you are an employee, you pay 6.2% Social Security tax on earnings up to that cap, and your employer pays another 6.2%. If you are self-employed, you pay the full 12.4% yourself. That means the maximum Social Security tax for a worker in 2026 is $11,439, and the same amount for the employer match.

This higher cap can sting in the short term, because it raises your payroll tax bill if you earn near or above that level. The trade-off is that paying Social Security tax on more earnings can also increase your future benefit, since your check is based on your highest 35 years of inflation-adjusted earnings.

You need more earnings to pick up Social Security work credits

To qualify for retirement benefits at all, most people need 40 “credits” or quarters of coverage. In 2026, each credit requires $1,890 of earnings, up from $1,810 in 2025. You can earn a maximum of four credits per year, so you will need $7,560 in covered earnings in 2026 to get the full four.

This change mostly affects younger workers and people with part-time or seasonal income. If you are self-employed or work gig jobs, it is easy to underpay Social Security tax by mis-classifying income or missing estimated payments, which can cost you credits. Keeping your reported earnings above that yearly threshold, and making sure your employer is actually withholding Social Security tax when they should, protects your future benefit. You can check your credited earnings and total work credits any time in your online account.

Disability work limits rise, changing how much you can earn

If you receive Social Security Disability Insurance (SSDI), the “substantial gainful activity” (SGA) limits change in 2026. For non-blind beneficiaries, SGA rises from $1,620 to $1,690 a month. For blind beneficiaries, SGA goes from $2,700 to $2,830 a month. The trial work period threshold also increases, from $1,160 to $1,210 a month.

These numbers matter if you are trying to work while on disability. Earning above the trial work limit for too many months can start a countdown toward ending SSDI, and earning above SGA after that can trigger a loss of benefits. At the same time, slightly higher limits give you a bit more room to test work or take on extra hours without immediately risking your check. If you are anywhere near these income levels, it is smart to keep detailed records of your hours and gross pay and to ask Social Security, in writing, how your work plans could affect your benefits.

The maximum benefit at full retirement age gets bigger

For very high earners with long careers, the maximum benefit is moving up again. In 2026, the maximum monthly Social Security benefit for someone who starts benefits at full retirement age is $4,152, up from $4,018 in 2025.

That is not the overall ceiling, though. Thanks to delayed retirement credits, someone who has earned at or above the taxable maximum for at least 35 years and waits until age 70 to claim can receive a much higher check. Several analyses put the 2026 maximum around $5,251 a month for those who meet all the requirements and delay to 70.

Very few people will ever see that kind of payout. But these numbers are still useful as benchmarks. If you had high earnings but your projected benefit looks lower than you expect, double-check your earnings history and make sure every year of work shows up correctly. Errors in high-earning years can do real damage to your future benefit.

Higher Medicare Part B costs eat into your COLA

Most retirees feel Social Security changes through Medicare as well as through their benefit amount. For 2026, the standard Medicare Part B premium rises to $202.90 per month, up from $185 in 2025. The annual Part B deductible increases to $283, up from $257.

Because most people have their Part B premium taken directly out of their Social Security check, this jump cuts into the COLA. Analysts estimate that roughly a third of the average 2026 COLA will be absorbed by the higher Part B premium.

High-income retirees pay even more because of IRMAA surcharges, which are based on tax returns from two years earlier. If your 2024 income was over $109,000 single or $218,000 married filing jointly, your 2026 Part B premium will be higher than the standard amount, and the surcharges can be steep. To keep more of your COLA, it can help to coordinate withdrawals from retirement accounts, Roth conversions, and capital gains with your tax advisor so you do not accidentally jump into a higher premium tier.

WEP and GPO are gone, and the fallout continues into 2026

A huge rule change for many public-sector retirees is still playing out in 2026. The Social Security Fairness Act, signed into law on January 5, 2025, repealed the Windfall Elimination Provision (WEP) and the Government Pension Offset (GPO). These rules used to reduce Social Security benefits for people who also received a pension from work that did not pay into Social Security, such as some teachers, firefighters, police officers, and other public employees. Benefits for months starting January 2024 are no longer reduced by WEP or GPO.

By mid-2025, Social Security had already sent more than 3 million one-time payments totaling about 17 billion dollars to people whose benefits were previously cut by WEP or GPO, and many monthly benefits have been recalculated. In 2026, you may still see adjustments if your record is complex or if you are newly applying for benefits with a non-covered pension in the mix. There is also a separate tax issue: some people who received large retroactive payments in 2025 are facing unexpectedly high income tax bills because all that back pay counts in one tax year. Lawmakers have proposed a “No Tax on Restored Benefits Act” to fix this, but as of early 2026 it is not yet law.

If you ever had your benefit reduced by WEP or GPO, 2026 is a good time to review your award letters and your online account. Make sure the reduction codes are gone and that any lump-sum back pay you received is correctly reported on your tax forms. If something looks off, contact Social Security in writing and keep copies of every notice.

Learn how to stretch your retirement savings and maximize your Social Security benefits for a comfortable retirement:

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Byline: Katy Willis

That 2026 COLA bump can feel like a tiny win, right up until it disappears into groceries, utilities, and whatever surprise charge shows up next.

The COLA for 2026 is 2.8%. For the average retired worker, that’s about $56 more a month. But if you have Medicare Part B taken out of your Social Security check, the standard Part B premium alone is $202.90 in 2026, up $17.90. So your “raise” can turn into “maybe $30–$40 after deductions” pretty fast. So the COLA isn't exactly life-changing, but if you have a plan for it, you can make it make a real difference.

Do the math on your net raise, not the headline COLA

Most people hear “2.8%” and assume they’ll feel it. But what matters is what actually lands in your account after deductions. The average benefit change is a useful reference point, but your check is your check.

Look at what’s coming out of your payment now, then watch what changes in January. Medicare premiums, tax withholding, and past-due balances can all change your net deposit. Medicare Part B is a common one: the 2026 standard premium is $202.90, and the Part B deductible is $283.

Once you know the net number, give that exact amount a job. If it’s $38, plan for $38. That’s how you keep it from vanishing.

Move the COLA money out of your “spending lane” the same day it hits

If the extra money lands in the same checking account you use for everything, it’ll blend in and disappear. It’s not a willpower issue. It’s just how money works when you’re busy and bills are constant.

Pick a simple system: a separate savings account, a second checking account, or even a prepaid card you only use for essentials. Then set an automatic transfer for the amount of your net increase. If your raise is roughly $50–$60 gross, your transfer might be closer to $30–$50 depending on deductions.

This is how you turn “extra money” into “planned relief.” When it’s separated, you can use it on purpose instead of wondering where it went.

Build a little utility buffer 

Utility bills don’t care that you’re on a fixed income. They spike when they spike. One of the best uses of a small COLA increase is creating a utility cushion so one high bill doesn’t knock everything else over.

Use the raise to get one month ahead on electric, gas, or water, even if it takes a few months to build. Paying $40–$60 extra toward utilities can quickly turn into fewer late fees, fewer shutoff notices, and fewer stressful calls. That’s real breathing room.

If you’re struggling with energy bills, it’s also worth checking whether you qualify for the Low Income Home Energy Assistance Program, also called LIHEAP. Even small help there can free up your COLA money for food and basics instead.

Pay down the one small debt that keeps charging you fees

A tiny balance with a high interest rate is like a little monthly subscription you never signed up for. If you’ve got a credit card, store card, or buy-now-pay-later payment that’s always hanging around, aim the COLA money at that first.

This isn’t about being “debt-free.” It’s about buying back cash flow. When you knock out a payment, you don’t just free up $40 this month. You free up $40 every month going forward. That’s bigger than the COLA itself.

If you can, set your COLA amount as an automatic extra payment right after your benefit hits. You’ll still make the minimum, but the extra goes straight to principal. The goal is boring: fewer bills, fewer fees, fewer moving parts. Boring is good when money is tight.

Use the raise to stock your pantry and medicine cabinet a little at a time

Food prices and household basics are exactly where a small COLA can quietly help, if you treat it like a supply plan, not a shopping spree.

Give yourself a monthly “stock-up” amount and keep it consistent. Think shelf-stable meals, rice, pasta, canned protein, frozen vegetables, coffee, soap, toilet paper, paper towels, pet food, whatever you burn through every month. When you build a cushion at home, you can ride out price jumps and bad weeks without putting groceries on a credit card.

If you receive help through SNAP, your Social Security change can affect your benefit amount, depending on your full household situation. That’s another reason to keep your pantry buffer steady: it protects you from benefit swings.

Prepay the boring bills to avoid fees

A lot of people lose their “raise” to financing charges and late fees. You can flip that by using the COLA money to prepay or stabilize the bills that hit hardest when you’re even a few days late.

Car insurance is a classic example. Many companies charge installment fees when you pay monthly. If you can use your COLA to build up enough to pay in bigger chunks, every six months, for example, you may reduce those fees. Phone bills and internet bills can also punish you with reconnection fees and extra charges if you fall behind.

This isn’t glamorous budgeting. It’s defensive budgeting. The win is fewer penalty charges and fewer weeks where you’re juggling payment dates like a second job.

Plan for Medicare to take a bite

If Medicare premiums come out of your Social Security check, your net COLA can shrink fast. The 2026 standard Medicare Part B premium is $202.90, and the deductible is $283. That’s real money.

Then there’s Part D drug coverage. The 2026 national base beneficiary premium is $38.99, which matters for penalty calculations and is a good “ballpark” reminder that drug coverage costs tend to rise. Higher-income households can also pay income-related monthly adjustment amounts, called IRMAA, which can push Part B premiums much higher.

This is why it helps to treat your COLA as partly “reserved” for medical costs. Even setting aside $15–$25 a month for copays and prescriptions can keep your budget from breaking later.

If premiums are eating you alive, see if you qualify for help

A lot of people assume they make “too much” for assistance and never apply. That’s how money gets left on the table.

Medicare Savings Programs can help pay Part B premiums and other costs for people who qualify. Extra Help can reduce Part D drug costs for people with limited income and resources. If you qualify for a Medicare Savings Program, you may automatically qualify for Extra Help too.

Even if you don’t qualify, checking once a year is worth it, because income and limits change. If you can get help covering premiums, your COLA becomes actual breathing room again instead of a health-care surcharge.

Don’t let taxes quietly take your “raise” in April

Social Security benefits can be taxable depending on your combined income, and the thresholds are lower than many people expect. If you’ve been getting a refund and suddenly you owe, that can erase months of COLA in one shot.

You have two practical options. One is to set aside a small amount each month in a separate account. The other is voluntary withholding from Social Security. You can request federal tax withholding from your monthly benefit using Form W-4V, and the allowed withholding rates include 7%, 10%, 12%, or 22%.

This is boring, but it’s stabilizing. A small, steady move now can keep you from a big, ugly surprise later.

If your check is being reduced for an overpayment or offset, fix that first

Sometimes the COLA doesn’t help because your check is already being reduced for something else, an overpayment, a past-due debt, or an offset. In that situation, budgeting tricks won’t solve it. You need the reduction addressed.

For Social Security overpayments, the default withholding rate for certain OASDI overpayments established on or after April 25, 2025 is 50% of the monthly benefit in many cases, with exceptions like fraud. If that’s happening to you, don’t assume it’s “just how it is.” There are processes to request a different recovery rate, appeal, or ask for a waiver, depending on the situation.

Offsets can also happen through federal debt collection programs like the Treasury Offset Program. The point is simple: if something is pulling money out of your benefit, that’s the first leak to patch. Otherwise your COLA is just pouring into a hole.

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Byline: Katy Willis

If you grew up in the 1970s, or your parents did, there’s a good chance there’s a coffee can or old jar of coins sitting in a closet somewhere. Most of those pennies, dimes, and dollars are just what they look like: small change.

But a handful of 1970s coins turned out to be serious money. A missing mint mark, a doubled design, or an example that somehow survived in perfect condition can push a coin from face value to hundreds, thousands, or even six figures.

Below are a range of 1970s coins that have actually sold for way more than face value. In almost every case, the big money is for graded, authenticated examples in top condition, so don’t quit your day job over a scratched-up pocket piece.

1970-S “Small Date” Lincoln cent (regular strike)

Most 1970-S pennies are “large date,” but a smaller, tighter-looking date was also used on some dies. On the small-date version, the top of the “7” lines up with the “0,” and the “LIBERTY” looks a little weaker. It’s a subtle difference, but collectors pay up for it, especially in bright red, uncirculated condition.

Certified, top-grade examples are where the real money is. One 1970-S small-date cent graded MS67 red sold for about $2,400 at auction in 2008. Lower grades are worth less, but still much more than a single cent.

If you think you have one, compare the date to a known large-date example and look closely at LIBERTY. Anything that looks promising should be checked under magnification, and serious money only comes once it’s authenticated and graded by a major coin service.

1970 “No-S” proof Roosevelt dime

Proof dimes from 1970 were made in San Francisco and should carry an “S” mint mark. A tiny number were struck with no mint mark at all, just a blank space above the date, which turned them into one of the key modern U.S. rarities.

Only a few hundred are believed to exist, all pulled from special proof sets. High-grade pieces have brought strong money. One 1970 No-S proof dime graded PR68 Ultra Cameo sold for about $1,290 at auction. Other examples in similar grades routinely sell for over $1,000.

If you have original 1970 proof sets, it’s worth checking the dime with a magnifying glass. A missing “S” mint mark is a huge deal, and definitely not something to clean or handle with bare fingers.

1971 “No-S” proof Jefferson nickel

The only “No-S” Jefferson nickel ever made is from 1971, again from San Francisco proof sets. A small number left the Mint without the “S” mint mark, and collectors have been hunting them for decades.

Because the mintage is so tiny, nice examples bring big money. One 1971 No-S Jefferson nickel graded PR69 Deep Cameo sold for around $7,426 at auction, even though its face value is just five cents Less-perfect examples still tend to sell for hundreds to a couple thousand dollars.

If you’ve got a 1971 proof set, check the nickel carefully. A missing “S” means you’re not holding an ordinary coin anymore, you’re holding a rare error that needs professional grading.

1972 doubled-die Lincoln cent (FS-101)

Most 1972 pennies are common, but one famous variety was struck from a doubled die. On these, the date and the words “IN GOD WE TRUST” and “LIBERTY” show strong, spread-out doubling you can see with the naked eye.

Even circulated examples can bring more than pocket change. The crazy money is in high-grade, full red coins. A 1972 doubled-die cent graded MS65 red has sold for just over $600 on eBay through a major auction price service. Even MS63–MS64 examples can be worth over $100.

If you see a 1972 penny with “blurry” or doubled letters on the front, don’t ignore it. Put it in a holder, compare it carefully to online photos of the FS-101 variety, and consider getting an expert opinion before you spend it.

1970-D Kennedy half dollar (40% silver key date)

Starting in 1965, Kennedy halves moved from 90% silver to a 40% silver “sandwich” composition. The last of those circulating silver halves was the 1970-D, and it was never released into general circulation. It came only in Mint sets, which makes it a key date for the series.

Because it’s 40% silver, even a circulated example has melt value above 50 cents. In high grade, it’s much more. One 1970-D Kennedy half graded MS66 sold for about $210 at auction in 2020. A top-pop MS67 example has fetched around $7,500 according to auction-price records.

If your family kept 1970 Mint sets sealed, there could be a nice little silver bonus inside. Just remember: breaking them out and handling coins can hurt value if you don’t know what you’re doing.

1971-D Kennedy half struck on a silver planchet (major error)

By 1971, regular Kennedy halves were supposed to be copper-nickel, no more silver. But a few 1971-D halves were accidentally struck on leftover 40% silver planchets from 1970, creating a small group of very valuable error coins.

These errors are heavier and ring differently than normal clad coins. One famous 1971-D error half graded MS61 sold for about $13,000 on eBay in 2018, according to major auction-price records

Most 1971-D halves are just pocket change, so don’t get your hopes up too fast. But if you have a 1971-D that seems heavier, looks more silvery on the edge, or tests differently for metal, a coin dealer or grading service can help you figure out whether it’s one of these rare mistakes.

1972 Type 2 Eisenhower dollar

Eisenhower dollars from 1972 come with three different reverse designs. The Type 2 version, used only on certain Philadelphia-minted coins, shows the earth with a flatter, more detailed outline of Florida and the Caribbean. It’s much scarcer than the common Type 1 and Type 3 reverses.

In average condition, a Type 2 might be worth $100 or so. In top mint state grades, prices climb quickly. A 1972 Type 2 Ike graded MS65 sold for $1,680 in a Stack’s Bowers sale in 2022.

If you have 1972 dollars, check the globe on the back against online comparison images. If it matches the scarcer Type 2 design, it’s worth treating that coin a lot more carefully than regular change.

1973-S silver Eisenhower dollar in PR70 Deep Cameo

In the early 1970s, the Mint sold special 40% silver Eisenhower dollars directly to collectors. The 1973-S silver proof is popular on its own, but the absolute top-grade coins, proof 70 with deep, frosty devices and black-mirror fields, are where the big premiums show up.

One 1973-S silver Ike graded PR70 Deep Cameo sold for about $930 at auction, far above its $1 face value and silver melt content. Even PR69 Deep Cameo coins often sell for solid three-figure prices.

If your family ordered silver Ikes from the Mint in the ’70s and never took them out of the original holders, it’s worth checking them. Coins that look flawless under magnification might justify the cost of professional grading.

1975 “No-S” proof Roosevelt dime

This is one of the most valuable modern U.S. coins, period. In 1975, the San Francisco Mint made millions of proof sets with an “S” on the dime. Two sets, somehow, were sent out with dimes that had no mint mark at all. Only two No-S 1975 proof dimes are confirmed today.

Because there are only two, prices have been wild. One example graded PR68 sold for $456,000 in 2019. In 2024, the other known coin brought about $506,250 in a GreatCollections sale.

Realistically, you probably don’t have one, both known examples are accounted for. But this coin is why people still check their proof dimes for missing mint marks. If another one ever turned up, it would almost certainly be worth six figures.

1976-S silver Bicentennial quarter in top grade

For the U.S. Bicentennial, the Mint issued special quarters dated 1776-1976, including 40% silver versions sold in collector sets. Most are common and trade close to silver value. But a few nearly perfect examples have sold for serious money.

One 1976-S silver Bicentennial quarter graded PR70 Deep Cameo brought $2,760 at auction in 2007. Even more dramatic, a 1976-S silver Bicentennial quarter graded MS69, an almost unheard-of grade for a business-strike coin, has sold for $19,200 in a Heritage auction.

If you see a 1776-1976 quarter with an “S” mint mark, it might be silver. Weighing the coin or checking the edge color helps. Only the absolutely perfect ones get into the thousands, but even lower-grade silver quarters are worth more than 25 cents because of their metal.

1976-S silver Bicentennial Eisenhower dollar (proof)

Bicentennial Ike dollars also came in 40% silver proof sets. These big, shiny coins show the Liberty Bell over the moon on the back and were a popular keepsake. Most are worth a bit over silver value, but top-graded proofs bring much more.

A 1976-S silver Ike in PR70 Deep Cameo has sold for several thousand dollars at auction; one widely cited sale hit about $7,475, far beyond the $1 face value. Even PR69 Deep Cameo pieces can sell for solid three-figure prices.

If you have original Bicentennial silver proof sets, check the Ike for cloudy spots or marks. A coin that still looks deep-mirror perfect decades later may be worth grading, especially if recent auction prices for similar coins are strong.

1979-P Susan B. Anthony dollar, Wide Rim (“Near Date”)

When the Susan B. Anthony dollar debuted in 1979, the Philadelphia Mint used two different rim styles. The “wide rim” (also called “near date”) has a thicker border and the date closer to the edge. It’s scarcer than the common narrow-rim version.

Circulated wide-rim coins might sell for $20–$30. High-grade certified pieces go for more. Auction records show a wide-rim 1979-P dollar graded MS67+ selling for about $6,995 on eBay in 2021. More typical MS65–MS66 examples often sell in the $60–$150 range based on recent eBay sales.

Finding one is as simple as comparing the date spacing and rim thickness against online images. If your 1979-P SBA dollar has a chunky rim and the date tucked in close, set it aside, it’s likely worth more than a dollar.

1979-S Susan B. Anthony dollar, Type 2 proof (“Clear S”)

Proof Susan B. Anthony dollars from 1979 were struck at San Francisco, and the “S” mint mark itself comes in two styles. The Type 1 mint mark is blobby; the Type 2 is sharply defined. Type 2 proofs are much scarcer and command a premium.

Nice Type 2 proofs in PR69 or PR70 can sell for strong money. Auction-price records show a 1979-S Type 2 proof dollar graded PR70 Deep Cameo bringing around $1,600 at auction. Even PR69 Deep Cameo coins often sell for $100–$300 depending on the market.

If you have 1979 proof sets, check the dollar’s mint mark with magnification. A crisp, clear “S” could mean you’ve got the scarcer Type 2, which is worth getting appraised if it looks flawless otherwise.

Strategies for making money outside of a traditional job:

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What sells quickly at pawn shops: In this post, you’ll find ways to navigate pawnshops, understand how they work and what items are most in demand.

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Byline: Katy Willis

Finding out that an old coin in your junk drawer is worth real money can feel like winning a tiny lottery. If you grew up in the 1980s, or just inherited someone’s coin jars, there’s a real chance you’re sitting on pocket change that’s worth far more than the number stamped on it.

The big money isn’t in normal, worn coins. It’s in rare mistakes, special mint varieties, and high-grade coins that survived without scratches. Those are the pieces collectors will actually pay up for.

Here are specific 1980s coins to look for, plus real auction results so you can see what they’ve gone for in recent years.

1982-D small date bronze Lincoln cent (super-rare “wrong metal” penny)

In 1982, the Mint switched pennies from mostly copper (about 3.1 grams) to copper-plated zinc (about 2.5 grams). The Denver “small date” cents were supposed to be zinc only. A tiny number were accidentally struck on leftover copper planchets, creating one of the rarest modern U.S. coins.

If you have a 1982-D penny with the small-date style and it weighs around 3.1 grams, that’s a huge red flag, in a good way. One lightly circulated example graded AU-58 sold for about $18,800 at a 2017 auction. Another piece later brought around $10,800 when it crossed the block in 2019.

Realistically, most 1982-D cents are common zinc. But if you’re willing to weigh your coins and learn the “small date” shape, this is the kind of find that can wipe out a credit-card balance.

1983 doubled-die reverse Lincoln cent

Most 1983 pennies are only worth a cent, even in nice shape. The exception is a specific doubled-die reverse variety where the lettering on the back is clearly doubled, especially “UNITED STATES OF AMERICA” and “ONE CENT.”

Collectors pay serious money for sharp, bright examples of this variety. A top-graded red example has sold for about $7,000 at auction. Even more modest high-grade pieces can go for a few hundred dollars.

To check your coins, you’ll need a loupe or macro phone lens. Look at the reverse lettering and the Lincoln Memorial columns. You’re looking for strong, clear doubling, not just a shadow from a worn coin. If it’s real doubling and the coin still has its original red shine, it’s worth getting a pro opinion.

1984 Lincoln cent with doubled ear (doubled-die obverse)

Another 1980s penny to watch for is the 1984 doubled-die obverse, sometimes called the “doubled ear” cent. On this one, Lincoln’s ear on the obverse shows obvious extra lines that look like a second ear behind the first.

Circulated examples are often worth $20–$50, but the real money is in certified red Mint State pieces. One high-grade example has sold for around $800 at auction. That’s still an enormous jump from a single penny.

Again, magnification is your friend. If the extra lines around Lincoln’s ear are bold and the coin is clean with nice color, you may have a variety collectors chase. A local coin shop or grading service can confirm if it’s the real doubled-die or just worn metal.

1982 “No P” Roosevelt dime

Starting in 1980, dimes from Philadelphia were supposed to carry a tiny “P” mint mark. In early 1982, a die was polished without the mint mark, and thousands of dimes were struck with no letter at all on the obverse. Most went straight into circulation.

A 1982 no-mint-mark dime in average circulated condition might bring $75–$150, but high-grade examples are worth more. One Mint State coin graded MS-67 sold for about $630. That’s a big return on a 10-cent piece.

Check the area just above the date on any 1982 dime. If there’s no “P,” compare it to photos of the real variety online. Weakly struck mint marks and wear can fool the eye, so condition and a good close-up look matter.

1983-S proof Roosevelt dime with no “S” mint mark

Proof sets from the 1980s are common, but a small number of 1983-S proof dimes left the mint without the “S” mint mark. These were never meant for circulation at all, only for collector sets, so survivors are almost always in high grade.

Because so few exist, collectors pay big money. A top-grade example has sold for around $10,500 at auction. That’s over 100,000 times face value.

If you have original 1983 proof sets, check the dime under bright light. A correct coin will have a sharp “S” mint mark. If the area is completely blank and the coin has the mirror-like surfaces of a proof, you may have one of the rare modern proof errors. Keep the entire set and packaging together until a professional can look at it.

1983-P “Spitting Eagle” Washington quarter

Most 1980s quarters are still just pocket change, but the 1983-P “Spitting Eagle” variety is an exception. On the reverse, a die crack or die chip creates the look of a line coming from the eagle’s beak, hence the nickname.

These are fun because you really can still find them in old rolls and jars. In certified Mint State grades, they sell for much more than 25 cents. One MS-65 example of the “Spitting Eagle” quarter has sold around the $175 mark at auction.

Check any 1983-P quarters you have saved. Flip to the back and look closely at the eagle’s beak. A strong “spit” line plus a clean, uncirculated coin can make this quarter worth grading and selling. Even lower-grade examples can bring a premium from variety collectors.

1986-P Kennedy half dollar in top Mint State

Regular 1980s Kennedy halves don’t get much love. They were mostly made for collectors, not day-to-day cash. But certain dates in very high grades are surprisingly valuable, and 1986-P is one of them.

Most 1986-P halves are common in average Mint State. The jump happens at MS-67 and above. One certified MS-67 coin has sold for close to $300. That’s not bad for a coin with “50 cents” on the label.

You won’t get that kind of money for a worn pocket-change coin. These prices are for almost flawless pieces, no major scratches, strong luster, and professional grading. But if you have original mint-set halves that look especially sharp, it can be worth checking population reports and recent sales before you spend them.

1987-P Kennedy half dollar (not issued for circulation)

In 1987, half dollars weren’t released into everyday circulation at all. They were only sold in special Mint Sets, which kept mintage low. That alone makes 1987-P halves more interesting than most modern dates.

High-grade pieces can get very expensive. A single coin graded MS-68, essentially perfect, has sold for about $4,800 at auction. Even MS-67 coins can bring hundreds of dollars, far above their 50-cent face value.

If you inherited 1987 Mint Sets or pulled halves from old collector albums, pay extra attention to this date. Look for sharp details in Kennedy’s hair, bright luster, and minimal marks. With prices like this, it’s worth treating the nicest examples gently and getting some professional advice.

1980-P Susan B. Anthony dollar in MS-68

Most Susan B. Anthony (SBA) dollars from the 1980s trade for roughly face value. They were unpopular in circulation and often sat in drawers. That’s actually good news for condition, some stayed nearly perfect.

The 1980-P dollar is common in average grades but rare in MS-68, which is near the top of the grading scale. At least one MS-68 example has sold for about $4,600 at auction. That’s a huge premium over a coin you could still technically spend.

If you have rolls or bank bags of SBAs, check them for the 1980-P date. Coins that look freshly made, with no visible nicks under magnification, may be worth sending in for grading. Just know that grading fees only make sense if the coin truly looks nearly flawless.

1981-S Type 2 proof Susan B. Anthony dollar

The 1981-S SBA dollar comes in two proof varieties. Type 1 has a “blobby” mint mark; Type 2 shows a sharper, more distinct “S.” The Type 2 is much scarcer and carries strong premiums, especially in perfect proof grades.

One 1981-S Type 2 proof dollar graded PR-70 has sold for close to $4,700 at auction. Even PR-69 examples are worth well above face value.

If you have proof sets from 1981, carefully check the dollar’s mint mark against clear online images of Type 1 vs. Type 2. Keep proof coins in their original holders, fingerprints and hairline scratches can crush the value.

1986 American Silver Eagle in perfect grade

The American Silver Eagle bullion program launched in 1986, making the first-year issue a favorite with collectors. Each coin has a face value of $1 but contains one troy ounce of fine silver, so even a basic example is already worth more than a dollar.

In perfect grade, though, the 1986 issue can be worth a lot more. A top-graded 1986 Silver Eagle has sold for over $20,000 at auction. More typical MS-69 or MS-70 examples still bring a strong premium over the silver melt price.

If you see a 1986 Silver Eagle in old bullion stacks or safe-deposit boxes, look at the surfaces. Sharp detail and spotless fields are key. Because these are bullion coins, many were handled roughly right out of the tube, so truly pristine pieces are much scarcer than the mintage numbers suggest.

1989 American Silver Eagle in top grade

By 1989, Silver Eagles were established as a popular bullion coin. Millions were struck, but again, most were not stored like fragile collectibles. High-grade survivors are where the money is.

A 1989 Silver Eagle graded MS-70 has auction records in the five-figure range, one listing shows an auction record of about $14,100. Even more typical MS-69 pieces often sell for well over their silver content.

If you have a mix of 1980s Eagles, don’t assume they’re all worth the same. Date, label, and grade matter. Pull out any 1989 coins that look flawless, and consider getting at least one expert opinion before you sell them for melt value only.

1985 Chinese 100-Yuan Gold Panda (1-oz)

Not every valuable 1980s coin is American. China’s 1-ounce Gold Panda coins from this era are popular with both bullion buyers and collectors. The 1985 100-Yuan issue features a young panda hanging from bamboo and has a face value of 100 yuan, but it contains a full ounce of nearly pure gold.

That alone makes it worth far more than face value. On top of that, graded coins can bring extra. One 1985 100-Yuan Panda in Mint State sold for roughly $1,900 at auction in the 2010s. Prices move with the gold market, but these coins rarely sell anywhere near just 100 yuan.

If you come across a 1980s Panda in an estate or safety-deposit box, treat it as both jewelry-level gold and a collectible. The coin should be weighed, checked for authenticity, and possibly graded before you accept offers.

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Byline: Katy Willis

Losing a spouse is hard enough without having to decode Social Security on top of it. For many widows and widowers, that survivor check is a big part of keeping the lights on and the mortgage paid.

As of early 2026, the average monthly Social Security benefit for a nondisabled widow or widower is about $1,925, so getting the rules right really matters. That’s money you could be counting on for the rest of your life.

The rules aren’t meant to trick you, but they are complicated. Your age, your late spouse’s age, remarriage, work, and even your kids can all change what you get and when.

If you understand a few key rules about survivor benefits, switching to your own retirement benefit, remarriage, and how age changes the math, you’ll be in a much better position to protect your income.

Understand what survivor benefits are

Survivor benefits are monthly payments based on your late spouse’s work record. If your spouse earned enough Social Security credits and paid Social Security tax, their record may now pay benefits to you, your children, and sometimes a dependent parent.

As a widow or widower, you can usually receive survivor benefits starting at age 60. If you are disabled, you may qualify as early as age 50. If you are caring for your late spouse’s child who is under 16 or has a qualifying disability, you may qualify at any age. Divorced surviving spouses can also qualify if the marriage lasted at least 10 years and other rules are met.

Survivor benefits are separate from your own retirement benefit. They are based on your spouse’s earnings history, not yours. You might eventually have three different numbers to compare: your survivor benefit, your own retirement benefit, and possibly a divorced survivor benefit on an ex-spouse’s record. That’s why it’s so important to ask Social Security to show you all the options you qualify for.

Know how your age when you claim changes your survivor check

The age you first take survivor benefits can permanently change your check amount. In most cases, you can claim as early as age 60. But if you do, you usually get about 71.5% of what your late spouse would have received at their full retirement age. The percentage rises as you wait and can reach up to 100% if you wait until your survivor full retirement age (between 66 and 67, depending on your birth year).

This reduction is for life on that survivor benefit. If you start at 60 and lock in the 71.5% rate, every future cost-of-living increase is calculated on that smaller base. There is no extra growth for waiting after your survivor full retirement age; survivor benefits do not earn delayed retirement credits like your own retirement benefit does.

That does not mean taking benefits early is always wrong. If you truly need the money at 60, a reduced survivor benefit can still be a lifeline. The key is to understand the trade-off before you file. Ask Social Security for survivor benefit estimates at different starting ages and compare what it means for your income at 60, 70, and beyond.

Your spouse’s claiming age also affects what you get

Your survivor benefit is connected to how and when your spouse claimed, or would have claimed, their own Social Security. If your spouse died before filing, your survivor benefit is based on what they would have received at their full retirement age, plus any delayed retirement credits if they worked and waited past that age. If they claimed early, the base amount for your survivor benefit may be lower.

There is also a “widow(er)’s limit” in the law. In many cases, your survivor benefit cannot be higher than what your spouse was actually getting, and it generally will not be lower than about 82.5% of their basic benefit, though the exact formula depends on both of your claiming ages. You do not have to remember that math, but you should know it exists.

This is why your spouse’s choices matter even if you are not yet retired. When the higher earner in a couple claims early, they are not only locking in their own smaller check, they may also be locking in a smaller future survivor benefit for you. When you talk with Social Security after a spouse dies, ask them to walk you through how they calculated your survivor amount so you can see what’s driving it.

You can’t collect both survivor and retirement benefits at the same time, but you can switch

One of the most confusing parts of Social Security is how different benefits interact. As a widow or widower, you may be eligible for both a survivor benefit on your spouse’s record and a retirement benefit on your own record. Social Security will not stack these. You generally get whichever is higher, not both added together.

However, widows and widowers are treated differently from most other claimants. The “deemed filing” rule, which forces many people to file for all benefits at once, does not apply to survivor benefits. That means you can start with one type of benefit and switch to the other later if it will be higher. For example, you might take a reduced survivor benefit in your early 60s while letting your own retirement benefit grow with delayed retirement credits up to age 70, and then switch.

Switching is not automatic. You have to contact Social Security and file a new application to move from survivor to retirement, or the other way around. Before you decide, ask for written estimates for both benefits at different ages so you can see clearly which order gives you the most lifetime income.

Working while getting survivor benefits can cut your payments temporarily

If you are under full retirement age and working, the earnings test applies to survivor benefits just like it does to retirement benefits. In 2026, if you are under full retirement age all year, Social Security withholds $1 in benefits for every $2 you earn over $24,480. In the year you reach full retirement age, the limit is higher, $65,160 in 2026, and the withholding changes to $1 for every $3 you earn above that amount, in the months before you reach full retirement age.

Here is the important twist for widows and widowers: for the earnings test, Social Security uses your full retirement age for retirement benefits, not the earlier full retirement age used to calculate survivor benefits. So you might reach 100% of your survivor benefit at your survivor full retirement age, but still be subject to the earnings test until you hit your regular retirement full retirement age.

Money withheld because of the earnings test is not lost forever. Once you reach full retirement age, Social Security recalculates your benefit to give you credit for months when you did not receive checks. The real risk is short-term cash-flow. Before you claim survivor benefits while still working, ask Social Security how much will actually be paid out to you in the next 12 months based on your expected earnings.

Remarriage rules depend heavily on your age

Remarriage does not automatically end your survivor benefits, but the timing matters a lot. In general, if you remarry before age 60, you usually cannot receive survivor benefits based on your late spouse’s record while that marriage is in place. If you are disabled, the cutoff age is 50. If you remarry at 60 or later (50 or later if disabled), you can usually keep survivor benefits on your late spouse’s record.

If you did remarry before 60 and that later marriage ends in death or divorce, you may regain eligibility for survivor benefits on your first spouse’s record. Your newer marriage may also give you rights to spousal or survivor benefits on your current spouse’s record. Social Security will look at every record you are eligible on and pay you whichever benefit is higher, but you will not get multiple full checks at once.

Because the rules are subtle, always tell Social Security about every marriage and divorce when you apply. Failing to report a new marriage or a marriage ending can lead to overpayments that you may be asked to repay later. It is better to over-share your history than to leave out something that could change your benefit.

Divorced widows and widowers have their own survivor rules

If you are divorced and your ex-spouse dies, you may still qualify for survivor benefits on their record. In general, you must have been married to your ex for at least 10 years, be at least 60 (or 50 if disabled), and be unmarried, unless your later marriage occurred at 60 or older (50 or older if disabled).

You do not need your ex’s permission, and your claim does not reduce what anyone else gets. Your ex’s current spouse and children can also receive survivor benefits at the same time, subject to the overall family maximum for that worker’s record. Social Security can pay all eligible survivors as long as the combined total stays within that family cap, usually 150% to 180% of the worker’s basic benefit.

When you apply, be ready with your marriage and divorce dates, your ex-spouse’s Social Security number if you know it, and your own identifying documents. Make sure the person taking your application knows about every marriage that lasted at least 10 years. Many divorced widows and widowers are underpaid simply because no one mentioned a long-ago marriage.

Your children and the family maximum can change what you receive

If you still have children at home when your spouse dies, they may also qualify for survivor benefits. Unmarried children can usually receive benefits until age 18, or up to 19 if they are still in high school full-time. Children with a qualifying disability that began before age 22 may qualify for survivor benefits longer.

Each eligible child can receive up to about 75% of your spouse’s basic benefit. A widow or widower caring for a child under 16 or with a disability may also receive a survivor benefit as a “widowed mother” or “widowed father.” But all of these checks are subject to the family maximum, which is usually between 150% and 180% of the worker’s full benefit. If the total for all survivors would exceed that limit, everyone’s benefits are reduced proportionally until the total fits under the cap.

That means your own survivor benefit may be lower while your children are also collecting, and then rise after they age out of benefits. This can surprise people who expect their own check to be a fixed number. When you apply, ask Social Security to show you how your household’s total benefits will change as each child hits age 16, 18, or 19 so you can plan ahead.

You must apply for survivor benefits, and the process still isn’t fully online

Social Security usually hears about a death from the funeral home, but that only stops your spouse’s checks. It does not start yours. To receive survivor benefits, you or someone on your behalf must contact Social Security and apply.

As of 2026, most widows and widowers still cannot complete a survivor claim purely through a self-service online form. Social Security’s own instructions for Form SSA-10, the widow’s, widower’s, and surviving divorced spouse’s benefit application, say you apply by calling the national number or visiting a local office. You can make an appointment, but it is not required. Independent guides and checklists still warn that survivor claims are taken by phone or in person, not through the same online process used for retirement benefits.

There is also a one-time lump-sum death payment of $255 that may be paid to a surviving spouse who lived with the worker, or to a child if there is no eligible spouse. You must apply for that within two years of your spouse’s death. When you call Social Security, ask about both the ongoing monthly survivor benefit and this one-time payment so nothing is missed.

10. Check your own record and revisit your plan over time

Even as a widow or widower, your own work record still matters. Your future retirement benefit, and any survivor benefits someone might receive on your record one day, are based on your lifetime earnings history. If a year of earnings is missing or too low because of a reporting error, your benefits can be permanently smaller unless you fix it.

The easiest way to keep an eye on this is to create a free “my Social Security” account. Once you are signed in, you can view your Social Security Statement, check your earnings year by year, and see estimates for your retirement and family benefits. If something looks wrong, an employer missing, or wages way off, you can ask Social Security to correct your record using old W-2s or tax returns.

Finally, remember that your best claiming strategy can change. New work, health problems, remarriage, a child aging out of benefits, or a change in the law can all shift what makes sense. It is fine to call Social Security more than once and ask for updated estimates. You do not need to become an expert; you just need to ask questions, take notes, and make choices that support your long-term income, not just this year’s bills.

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Byline: Katy Willis